Monsoon Magic - The real land of the Tiger

The Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve (TATR) in Monsoon is Magical

The Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve (TATR) covers the hilly area known as the Chimur Hills. The Sanctuary stretches over the Moharli and Kolsa ranges towards the south of the park and Tadoba to the north.  

Kolsa range is now marked as core and tourist are not allowed (its the same place we sighted the cubs during our last trip in 2012)

Tadoba Lake is practically at the centre of the Tadoba Reserve and is a crucial perennial water source for the region. The Reserve does have several other lakes and has large meadows too.

Map - Tatr

With arrival of monsoon, National parks across the nation remain closed for approximately three months i.e from June 30 to October 15th 2014.

Tadoba is the only reserve which welcomes wild life enthusiasts even during this period. The forest department had not only allowed safaris on the paved roads (19kms) in this season but also extended the trail upto tadoba lake through till NaveGaon Gate (totally approx 32Kms).

It is believed that with onset of monsoon mating season of wild animals begin, though Sanjay (our guide) mentioned that he had witnessed the matings even in other months of the year.

Rather than writing too much narration for the four safaris we took between 22nd August 2014 and 24th August 2014, felt let every wildlife enthusiast use their own creative thinking after watching the pictures, to feel the forest.

Our safari's began from Moharli Gate in a gypsy which was hood-less. 

Hoodless 4x4 - Gypsy

The Reserve was indeed  beautiful at this time of the year. The sheer delight to sight wildlife in numbers in midst of the greens was magical. "Monsoon Magic" is what came to our mind to describe the surely pristine, unique Eco-system, endowed with rich biodiversity.

       Tar roads                                                                        Track roads        

Wild Dog

Wild Boar with piglets

Wild Dog

Bison

Sambar

During the first safari (evening) sanjay (our guide) showed us the remains of a kill, it seems just about two- three days back a spotted deer had fallen prey to the Katezari Male. The aroma of the kill was still lingering in the vicinity, though nothing much was left except its remains.Later in the evening we sighted the tiger resting on the edge of the lake.

Spot the tiger 

Tadoba lake homes a lot of crocodiles and were seen swimming elegantly.

Crocodile

Being off season no advance booking can be done online for the safaris. Only 10 vehicles are allowed on first come first serve basis daily. Hence, woke up early and stood at the main gate by 5am.

We drove through the tar road towards Tadoba lake. Enroute, as we were climbing the small gradient, noticed fresh tiger pug marks. These pug marks were showing movement away from the lake. 

Pug Marks

Suddenly the monotony of our discussions was shattered by a Spotted Deer alarm call. We immediately turned around  and drove back. There it was, by the time we stopped, saw it move into the thick forest. Anticipating it would head straight towards the open area where the alarm call was been heard.

Tiger Male - Katezari

Taking a few strides it turned around and walked away on the stretch which was closed. His face had some scars, maybe a face off with another male of the territory.

Strides away into the dense forest

The days and evenings are very pleasant with just few droplets falling. 

We had been lucky as all the safaris we were the first to enter the reserve.

Early morning on the following day sighted a leopard walking on the left side of the road. Hearing the vehicle, it disappeared into the jungle. Sanjay anticipated it wanted to cross the road and asked Prashant (the driver) to shut the engine and wait. 

Within minutes, saw it watching us gracefully.

Leopard

Within seconds swiftly crossed the road

Leopard

Birding was quite low compared to winter and summer sightings, however, the Changeable hawk eagle, Parakeets, Pied starling, Grey junglefowl, White-eyed buzzard, Crested serpent eagle, Spotted Owlet, Asian openbill stork, Red-naped ibis and plenty of doves were seen.

Indian Hare

Sambar Deer

Spotted Deer

Traveling to Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve:

• Option One - By Air: Nagpur is the nearest airport and is 150km from Tadoba.

• Option Two - By Rail: Chandrapur is 45km from Tadoba and is the nearest railway station. Nagpur is 150km away and is well-connected too.

Moharli is the village at the entrance of the park which we prefer.Taxis from Nagpur to Tadoba costs Rs 3000 one way.

Traveling inside Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve:

Sanjay arranged the 4x4 gypsy and acted as our guide as well. He can be contacted on sanjumonde@rediffmail.com (+91 7620674918)

There are elephants at Moharli and they are excellent for Tiger tracking but not that good for photography. (closed for the time being)

Best time to go to Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve:

November to March is most pleasant. However, mammal sightings including tigers increase most during the peak summer months of April and May. Felt monsoon gives a complete different feel. The park entry timings were from 6am to 11am in the morning and 2pm to 6.30pm in the evening.


Park is closed on Tuesdays.

Accommodation at Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve:

The govt run Maharastra Tourism Development Corporation (MTDC) rest house has decent accommodation. Check availability at the Maharastra tourism website.

It has an excellent location right on the edge of the Irai dam back waters.

Credits : Mr. Gopinath Kollur , Mr. Sanjay Mondhe, Mr. Prashant and Yash Kothiala (YK) my 16 year old son for providing me some images to compliment the trip report. All Images are in full frame and no crop has been used.

Thank you friends for spending your time here.

Happy Birding!

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Birding in Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve (TATR)

10^th June 2012

Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve (Maharashtra) India

Bird Photographer at heart is what I knew I was... Two months back in a casual discussion, my fellow birder friend suggested, we visit a national park for our May – June holiday session, Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve (TATR), is what we decided on. TATR is located in the Indian State of Maharashtra.

Personally had never been into the wild earlier and the place had been in discussions as a number of tiger cubs had been born there in the past 12 months. The best part was that we were to cover the place over a weekend! While we knew that temperatures in this part of the country could touch 48 degrees Celsius in May – June. Deciding to look no further, the trip was planned and put to action...

Land of The Tiger

Tadoba - Andhari Tiger Reserve is Maharashtra's oldest National Park located in the Chandrapur district, about 155 KM from the Nagpur International Airport. TATR is home to about 43 Royal Bengal Tigers (Panthera Tigris - India's National Animal), some 80 species of other mammals and 280 species of birds.

A Southern Tropical Dry Deciduous Forest, it is largely a flatland with 40 per cent of its area covered with bamboo trees, which gives it a unique appearance. Compared to other popular tiger reserves in India, TATR is relatively under-explored and under-photographed. The place has only of late been attracting tourists and is slowly coming up on the Indian wildlife circuit...

We board the train from CST Mumbai to Chandrapur station, where we reached after an overnight journey. We reached the MTDC Moharli Tourist Complex at around lunch. Our guide Mr. Sanjay was there, who suggested that we be ready by 2 PM

Tadoba, a birder's paradise! ... Was in our mind, for the first day the guide said we need to take the evening safari inside the Tadoba range of the forest to see the Tiger... that is time we realised, coming here the prime motive would be tigers...

Chital (Spotted Deer)

Sambar

We wore our scarf and hats and drove through the bamboo lined tracks of Tadoba, we spotted Sambar Deer’s, Chitals (Spotted Deer), Gaur (Indian Bison), Indian Wild Boars, Barking Deer (Muntjac), , Indian Peafowl (Peacock - National Bird of India), Common Langur, Crested Serpent-Eagle

Owing to the bamboo thickets, animal sightings were fewer. Every now and then I would feel the urge to climb down from the vehicle, which was not allowed as per the rules of the park.

Telia Tigress - Lila

As we were passing the scenic area, where we had stopped to see some birds and our fellow team had moved ahead  on the track. To our surprise, we found her (Lila) sitting majestically near the water hole. It was 6.30 in the morning and our day was already made. We moved deeper into the park, sighting birds, Deer’s, Wild Boars, Bison’s and Langoors!!

We returned to the park, after a filling lunch, which we had ordered in the morning itself, in the MTDC resort.

Oriental Honey-buzzard ( Pernis ptilorhyncus)

Enroute to the Kolsa region, we sighted this thirsty Oriental Honey Buzzard, which was brave enough, and wouldn't fly off. We had to stop and wait till it quenched its thirst. 

As per the park rules, it’s a rule to wait till the animal/bird has moved from the track!!
After spending some time here we drove straight to region.

The forest guide Sanjay Mondhe told us that the tiger would surely appear here as apart from Telia Lake this was the only other source of water for him and of late he had been sighting them quiet regularly here. 

Tiger Cub - Kolsa

We had just about reached the spot and we saw two cubs, busy playing in the heat. We could hear the rustling of leaves behind the bamboo thickets. Suddenly one could see some movement through the thick vegetation (perfectly camouflaged) and finally, stealthily a gorgeous eighteen months old cubs appeared before us.

Their golden coat, glistening through the bamboo thickets was the best I have ever seen. Though, our view was obstructed by trees, shrubs and the bamboo thickets could see their movements very clearly.

Tiger Cub - Kolsa

They then got up, glanced around and disappeared into the bamboo thicket and rested at a spot about 10-15 meters closer to us!

Tiger Cub - Kolsa

Though pleased with the distance, it was enough scary when they would look into the lens!!!!

Tiger Cubs - Kolsa

Tigers, and more!... it was just the second day, and we had already sighted three tigers. There was just another water hole left and were told, that it was a week, that sighting was regular at those spots as well.

Gaur (Indian bison)

We then took a different route on the way back, which was through even denser forest. Dry grasslands on one side...  
 

Summer Habitat

...and scenic river on the other, inspite of being peak summer and temperature touching 48Deg, there was vegetation and the shades were mesmerising, had never seen anything like this before !!!

The place is a veritable hotspot for birds!

Indian Pitta (Pitta brachyura)

The Indian Pitta was a medium-sized passerine bird, which we wanted to see for a long time, it was one of the most colourful birds we had photographed. The habitat was thick with  undergrowth, but we could sight it more easily detected by its calls.

All in all I would say Tadoba - Andhari Tiger Reserve is a good place for people who have loads of patience and want to enjoy the jungle in its entirety. 

 

We reached the main track again and found a long line of vehicles. The four telia cubs were posing and playing in glory. Soon they decided to rest near the water hole, to beat the summer heat.

Telia Cubs 

Following is the complete list of birds we sighted at TATR

Crested Serpent Eagle (Spilornis cheela)

Spotted Owlet, Spotted Dove, Brahminy Starling, Black Shouldered Kite, Common Kingfisher, Common Hawk Cuckoo, Oriental Magpie Robin, Common Myna, Rock Pigeon, Indian Roller, Pied Myna, 

Indian Roller (Coracias benghalensis)

Indian Roller (Coracias benghalensis)

Black-shouldered Kite (Elanus axillaris)

Common Hawk-Cuckoo (Hierococcyx varius)

Indian Roller (Coracias benghalensis)

Southern  Coucal (Centropus sinensis)

Spotted Owlet (Athene brama)

Rufous Treepie (Dendrocitta vagabunda)

Jungle Owlet (Glaucidium radiatum)

The tiger was not just the only attraction. If one is willing to accept this fact then TATR is an excellent virgin destination for serious wildlife enthusiasts and a birder's paradise!

“Look deep into nature, and then you will understand everything better.” - Albert Einstein

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