Birding in Mishmi Hills & Maguri Beel

Dibang Valley (lower) a region, tucked away in the eastern Great Himalaya Range along the northeastern state of Arunachal Pradesh India was our destination for this winter (Nov end) birding session this year.

Dense forests - Dibang Valley (lower) - Yash Kothiala

During the summer of 2017 (April) had visited the Mishmi hills, that are the highest range of Purvanchal hills situated in the Shivallils (outer Himalayas) they are also known by different names in different areas such as Abor, Dafla, Miri and Mishmi Hills in Arunachal Pradesh.

After a long flight from Mumbai to Dibrugharh (via Koltata) we drove straight to the newly built Frogmouth Camp & Resort, 14kms after the town of Roing. With all modern amenities, the entire place was to our disposal that evening. We recall visiting the exact spot to see the Hodgon’s Frogmouth during our previous trip.

Frogmouth Camp & Resort - Yash Kothiala

Over dinner, Ravi Mekola our naturalist for the entire trip shared the itinerary that he had planned for us around the region that has Subtropical evergreen forests of oak, maple, juniper, and pine covering the characterised by steeply sloping mountains. He sounded excited as he mentioned that there were regular sightings of the illusive Sclater’s Monal in the valley at this time of the year.

Only we need to reach the place beyond Mayudia pass (around 44 kms) before day break, as it seems the bird begins its journey into the upper or lower regions of the valley and usually crosses the spot, which was more open and one can get a good glimpse of the bird. So we had an early dinner and slept by eight pm only to wake up at 2.30am to begin the onward journey.

Though it was the wee hours of the morning, seemed like the night was still young, the breeze was cool had surely gone even more cooler as we reached the spot, luckily we had anticipated and worn a few layers (including thermals). We mounted our equipment on the tripod, walked a while and the wait began. Slowly dawn broke, and with each passing moment our anticipation to see the bird soared. 

Surely, the weather was more favourable to the region than to us, as it had started to drizzle and soon intensified. A few more birders joined in and waited along with us. As the day light came in, it bought some birds like the Black-faced Laughingthrush, Ludlow's Fulvetta right next to where we were waiting.

Almost an hour or so had passed and there was no sign of the bird today, being the first day none of us felt low and soon we drove out towards the 65kms milestone. The place has a small restaurant, which was very neat, cozy and had some amazing options where we could have breakfast, cooked on a traditional fireplace.

Just around the place there were only three to four cottages maybe home to the local inhabitants, while the others were still in the restaurant, walked around a bit and saw little colourful flowers that had bloomed along the road. Feels nice when one is at an altitude higher than the clouds, that are sailing slowly, creating a mist around you. 

Later we drove back towards Coffee house, a place where tourists and mostly birders camp up. This time we were put up in a very typical wooden inspection bungalow, the Forest IB,  a few steps above Coffee house. My past experience in April itself had given me chills during the night. We were surely expecting the November chills to be more, the weather gradually changes as soon as the sun sets. Temperatures stay as low as 12 C° during the day. In the evenings and at night though it cools down even more. One morning it was surely  measure around 0 C° in our room. We had taken cozy sleeping bags this time, that would keep us warm even in -4 C°

There is no electricity supply in only of these two places and we had to depend and wait till its 5.30PM as the genset would come on until 8PM, enough time to charge the camera batteries and phones.

The next day seemed so much better after a good sleep, though it was a foggy day, could still see so much of greens and so less of concrete. A cascading range of hills spread far and wide, surely a perfect habitat for forest birds. Manipur fulvetta’s (Steak-throated Fulvetta) were chirping all over the place. 

We had barely started our next session of birding and saw a bird in the distant perched on a high branch,  it was still drizzling, Ravi pulled out his binocular and said, take a picture quick, we were seeing a Vivid Niltava, taking a nice overview of the area, what an un expected lifer. 

Vivid niltava (Niltava vivida) - Aseem Kothiala

The Mishmi Hills lie within the drainage basin of the Brahmaputra and its tributaries. The hills rise from the flood plains of Brahmaputra tributaries at just 400 m above sea level to reach heights close to the Indian-Chinese border above 5000m. The very reason the temperature changes drastically once one drives up the twining roads from Roing to Mayudia Pass (2655m). 

On the lower altitudes we could see sub-tropical evergreen forests, harbouring wild bananas and tree ferns. As we climbed up found Magnolias, Rhododendron, Bamboo and Hemlock Fir the most conspicuous trees at Mayodia Pass. Many birds like the Spotted Forktail, Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher, Broad-billed Warbler apart from Grey-sided Laughingthrushes were seen.

Manipur Fulvetta (Fulvetta manipurensis) - Yash Kothiala

Bar-winged Wren-Babbler (Spelaeornis troglodytoides) - Yash Kothiala 

Long-billed Wren-Babbler (Napothera malacoptila) - Yash Kothiala

The Mishmi Hills surely do harbour many mammal species. But because of the inaccessibility of the terrain and the dense vegetation we could only get a glimpse of the Himalayan Serow, which was purely accidental, while we were driving really slow. It was twilight after dusk and the previous night we had got only a fleeting glimpse of the Himalayan wood owl.

Birding sessions everyday started at 4.30am and with a single bird in mind, yes the Sclater’s Monal. After waiting until 6am or so, we would go birding on the lower region until Hunli on one side and Tiwarigaon on the other. 

Birding continued sometime by walking a bit, driving a bit and just waiting in the vehicle when it poured, after each drizzle we felt, the air got even more cleaner. It felt so nice to breathe fresh mountain air and enjoy the little droplets fall over us. At some instances, surely felt the difference between April month and now, the activity was much lower, though we had seen the endemic Mishmi wren-babbler, Long-billed Wren-Babbler. Some birds only called, came and gave us a very brief visit and disappeared into the undergrowth without posing, specially the Gould's Shortwing!

On one of the instances heard calls of the ward’s trogon, we moved closer to the call and could see there were about three females who were in playful hunting mood, one of them obliged by posing on the mossy branch amongst the canopy.

Ward's trogon (Harpactes wardi) - Yash Kothiala

No sooner, we moved a little ahead came across a hunting party of White-tailed Nuthatches, Green-tailed Sunbirds and some Yuhinas, they do create a bit of confusion, whom to admire and whom to ignore!

As the forests is dense here, there was no trail where one could walk on. Though its suggested that in the summer the trail can lead one to some illusive birds who do not come in the open, unlike this Crimson browed-finch. 

 Crimson-browed Finch (Pinicola subhimachala) - Aseem Kothiala

Once in a while we would hear the flock of Blue-winged laughingthrushe’s move up and down the valley, some being bolder than the other at times. Time flies it truly does, we had already spent 4 nights here and did get to see some lifers, on the contrary, Yash was having a great time, as it was his first ever trip to Mishmi, he was counting not only the lifers but also his blessings and the enjoying the company of Satish T, Dr Ian and Marvelyn Diaz our fellow birders in this trip.

Marron-backed accentors were seen in flocks of 6-7 and we had to keep our distance to see them, surely a shy kind here. A pair of Slender-billed Scimitar Babblers were seen busy feeding in a typical habitat of a open shrub. 

Slender-billed Scimitar Babbler (Pomatorhinus superciliaris) - Aseem Kothiala

Maroon-backed Accentor (Prunella immaculata) - Yash Kothiala

Today evening was the last one we would be spending here and thought of driving a little late from Tiwarigaon towards Coffee house (near Mayudia pass) primary to see if we can get the glimpse of the Himalayan Wood-Owl. 

Trotro and Mara (both were an integral part of Ravi's team) set out in action quickly and soon gathered some fallen twigs, branches and dried leaves to create a bonfire. Ravi was all prepared with his thermos of nice black tea, which we enjoyed as sighted some amazing birds like the Beautiful Sibia and other commoners of the region. As the light disappeared we started our journey towards the forest IB and with no luck that day, reached our camp after a couple of hours.

The following morning, the 26th of November was our last morning and a last chance to try for the Sclater’s Monal and like everyday, we went, waited and left. Bidding goodbye to the region for now, but knew for sure we will have to return again someday to see this illusive and secretive bird, who maybe have changed its tracks and its to this instinct that the bird is still surviving in the region, roaming wild and free. Surely reminding us of the teaching of our spiritual master, "we can desire and put in our best efforts, its upto Mother Nature to oblige in fulfilling it." 

The nearest airport to reach the Mishmi Hills is from Dibrugarh (eastern Assam). So obviously our return leg was planned out from there, with two days of bird watching in the Grasslands of Maguri (near Tinsukia) and two days in dense forest of Dehing Petkai (near Digboi)

After the descend from Mishmi Hills, soon the extra layers of clothing were the first that we shed. The weather was awesome and the roads were nearly empty as we went speeding over the Dhola-Sadia bridge – India’s biggest – that was inaugurated sometime in 2017.  Reminded me how much time it had taken last time when one had to drive over rubbles and sand to get into and out of Arunachal Pradesh.

Ravi surprisingly took a detour to a small grassland to show Yash another lifer, the Black-breasted Parrotbill before we headed  to a location, much before Tinsukia, where the sighting of the Eastern grass-owl (also knows as the Australasian Grass-Owl) was happening, a birder had come across this sightings in late October this year, of this pair that were nesting. Again, there was a particular time, we may probably see it, this time just after dusk, when the sun sets.

On reaching the village we started to trek towards and into the grasslands,  We waded through thigh deep water and walked almost two kms to reach a spot, and waited a distance away from the site, where they are seen hovering and bringing meals for the young. The villagers who saw us carry our equipment were equally or rather even more excited than us and a few very keenly joined us in the wait.

Soon, it was sundown time, a few cormorants and Ruddy Shelducks were seen flying over us. A stray flight by the bat ensured we could try out focusing and panning skills, as if we wanted to get an image, which had to taken in flight only. There was no way we could or wanted to venture near the nest. In a gap of about 45 mins the owls came twice with the meal. In one instance, surely the bird had noticed us and was circling over us and calling out. 

We felt, it was an indication that it’s time to leave them to carry on with their parental duties.

Australasian Grass-Owl (Tyto longimembris) - Aseem Kothiala

Using our torches we got back to the other side of the bank again walking through the tall grass and wading through the river, the water seemed much warmer. The soft sand felt like a rich Persian carpet!

After a nice cup of local black Assamese tea, we drove out towards Digboi. A town famous not only for Oil but also for bird watcher. But this time we were going to spend two days in Dehing Petkai National Park, only to look for another illusive bird, the Grey peacock Pheasant. During this time of the year the vegetation and under growth is less, making it a little see to sight this ground bird. Second and most important for us, the leeches just don’t exist at this time of the year, so we could walk safely into the dense forests. Only we need to be cautious of the elephants.

After reaching the gates of the National park and completing the entry formalities, started to walk deeper into the forest on a track that was made. We sat along a slope that had a lot of shrubs around us. All we could see now was area that looked like an oval arena covered with plantations of creepers and thick barks of the tall trees, that kept shedding leaves and droplet of water (dew). We were as quiet as we could be, each one sitting not far from each other but confined to a very small area. Any sound even of a twig snapping and the bird would disappear, said Ravi. 

The game of waiting began, simply love this part, as it gives you time to listen to your thoughts, desires for that moment. Suddenly we could hear its call, it was calling from very near, maybe from the right side, where we were sitting. Like a beautiful model walking down the ramp, saw it move through the bushes, it was feeding and moving swiftly, whenever we clicked the sound of shutter did alert it, it would look around and move faster. There was this instance, it walked so close to the place where we were hiding, the beauty was mesmerising. Trust me, you cannot hear when its walking, they are so silent, it had almost finished surveying the area and slowly climbed up the small hill in front of us and disappeared. We all looked at each other in surprise and had goosebumps after seeing this amazing bird so close and for so long!

Grey Peacock-Pheasant (Polyplectron bicalcaratum) - Aseem Kothiala

Quietly we got up and one by one started to walk back, without uttering a word, just to ensure the silence of the forest is maintained and the bird is not disturbed. Personally, had seen the bird earlier on two different instances and the bird had just rushed into the forest, glad this time, it wasn’t alarmed by our presence. 

The region has many butterflies which would keep Dr Ian, Satish T and Marvelyn busy for sure, as they adore them. We had walked a lot today seeing many birds like the Pale-blue Flycatcher, Black-breasted and White-throated bulbul's and were even more happy when Ravi told us that we had arranged for home cooked meals in an Assamese home. The place reminded me of my native place (in Himachal Pradesh) , it was a home made of bamboo and mud, the veranda was clean and surely freshly coated with mud. Quickly, took off my shoes, as soon as the feet touched the floor, felt totally energersied. After a wholesome meal, even took a nap on the floor. 

When we woke up, we were offered white tea, made out of freshly plucked tender tea leaves from the neighbouring tea garden. By 2.30 PM we set out again into the forests for some more birding, here in the plains, the afternoon can get really warm. We sighted birds like the Silver-breasted Broadbill, Scarlet Minivet's ,and few other commoners. But even here the sun sets by 4.30PM giving you enough time to get back to the camp and rest, until one retires for the day with a good night sleep.

Silver-breasted Broadbill (Serilophus lunatus) - Yash Kothiala

The next evening, after birding in the forest, we drove towards our last destination for this trip, Maguri beel. Ravi put us up in an awesome camp called Maguri Eco Camp, which was just adjacent to the water body, commoners like the Pheasant tailed-jacana, Coots, Ruddy Shelducks along with Citrine and White Wagtails were our neighbours.

Imagine being able to wake up to bird calls, when you open the door, all you are see is vast open waters, mist moving over the water, which is broken by the wings of the birds that flutter to land.

Today we planned to do some grassland birding, birds here are also known to be skulkers and one needs a lot of patience and a lot of luck to see them. We had travelled here earlier, but the region was inaccessible due to the water levels being very high. Though this time, it was not much, we still had to hire a small boat to get to the other side, where the grass was really high and we walked on the perrifery. 

We were lucky to see the Swamp Prinia (Swamp Grass-Babbler) ,Marsh Babbler, Chinese Rubythroat to name a few as we walked around this small but rich (in terms of bird population) grasslands. With the disappearing grasslands, surely these birds are declining and some birds are already listed under either Vulnerable or near-threatened in the IUCN Red list. 

Spotted Bush Warbler (Locustella thoracica) - Yash Kothiala

Swamp Grass Babbler  (Laticilla cinerascens) - Aseem Kothiala

Jerdon's Babbler (Chrysomma altirostre) - Yash Kothiala

Chinese Rubythroat (Calliope tschebaiewi) - Aseem Kothiala

Marsh Babbler (Pellorneum palustre) - Aseem Kothiala

No trip to Maguri is complete unless one takes the canoe ride, on the fresh waters. Its too early time of the year and the migratory species are yet to reach this amazing wetland. Though we could see the Pallas’s Grasshopper Warbler apart from Bar-headed Geese and commoners like Ruddy Shelduck's and Wagtail's. 

Occasionally we saw the Pied Kingfisher hover, take a dip (to catch prey), mostly aborting the dive mid-way and again hovering almost at the same altitude but a different location. Little cormorants wait patiently on the bamboo that were inserted into the water bodies by the local fishermen, to mark their territory. 

Lotus and other water plants can be seen floating here in very large number, many waders were seen. On that particular day we saw many swallows and small pratincoles take to the sky as we approached closer. 

Pallas's Grasshopper Warbler (Helopsaltes certhiola) - Aseem Kothiala

Today was the day we spent just around the village of Maguri Beel, Swamp francolin's can we seen in large numbers along with Striated and Chestnut-capped babbler's. Along the small patches of water would see the birds busy foraging. It was as usual foggy like any other morning, the villagers had started to leave their homes, though it hardly affected the bird activity here, they surely were living in harmony. 

Thanking my fellow birders Satish Thayapurath, Dr Ian D'souza, Marvelyn Diaz and Yash Kothiala. Special thanks to Trotro, Mara and Ravi Mekola for making our trip totally memorable.  

Finally we packed our backpack's and equipment and headed to the airport to see more of concrete and less of green cover!

We saw close to 157 species in this trip, of which 16 were lifers for me, checklists updated on : https://ebird.org/profile/NTg5NTQ4/IN

Happy Birding and a Happy New year (2022)

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