Birding in United Kingdom ( RSPB Bempton Cliffs, Yorkshire coast)

Half a Million Birds, Two sessions and One Very Happy Birder

Ocean birds spend most of their lives away from land, riding the ocean waves and winds. They do return to rocky islands and remote shores to breed.

Birds surely fly, so does time and both wait for none. One such instance we faced in the month of August of 2023 (To read click) , where in we reached South Stack, couple of miles from Holyland, Anglesey in Wales only to find out that most ocean birds had flown back to the ocean. 

So we promised ourselves to see them some other day. Here we were a little late again, but just in time. Though the destination was different the motive was same, see the Atlantic Puffins and the other ocean dwellers.

RSPB Bempton Cliffs – Evening of 22nd July & Morning of 23rd July 2026

RSPB Bempton Cliff - Image by Yash Kothiala

There are some places that quietly remind you why nature never needs a script. RSPB Bempton Cliffs is one of them. Standing on the towering chalk cliffs above the North Sea, surrounded by the calls of hundreds of thousands of seabirds, you quickly realise that this isn’t simply birdwatching—it’s attending Britain’s loudest, smelliest and arguably most spectacular avian music festival. Bempton Cliffs has been attracting seabirds for thousands of years. Around half a million seabirds gather here each breeding season, making it one of the largest mainland seabird colonies in Britain. 

Image by Yash Kothiala

Long before telescopes and digital cameras, it seems the local people collected eggs from these towering cliffs—a dangerous occupation requiring ropes, courage and perhaps a questionable understanding of workplace safety. They would leave enough eggs so that the supplies for the following years would be possible.

Thankfully, today’s visitors only risk dropping a lens cap or their hats on this breezy cliff

Bridlington History  

Evening Session – Wednesday, 22nd July

The evening greeted us with pleasantly warm summer weather, broken clouds, light coastal winds and excellent visibility over the sea—ideal conditions for lingering at the cliff edge as the golden light softened the white chalk. 

Although late July marks the winding down of the breeding season, the cliffs would still be buzzing with activity. Northern Gannets dominated the skyline, gliding effortlessly. The signboard read out loud, “take a closer look…” , the image from Year 1 to Year 5 were showed us the different plumages we would see the Gannets in. 

Northern Gannet (Probably in its Year 3) - Image by Aseem Kothiala 

Northern Gannet (Adult) over the ocean - Image by Yash Kothiala 

Northern Gannet (Adult) - Image by Aseem Kothiala 

Black-legged Kittiwakes filled every available ledge, probably constantly arguing with neighbours over whose imaginary property line had been crossed. If social media existed for seabirds, Kittiwakes would spend all day posting complaints about next-door noisy neighbours.

Black-legged Kittiwake - Image by Aseem Kothiala

We sighted half a dozen Razorbills swimming away slow over the waves and a dozen plus Guillemots (Common Murre) who stood shoulder to shoulder on narrow cliff ledges, somehow managing to look both elegant and permanently confused. They would mostly face the cliff, only to face otherwise, if they had to plunge to take a flight.

Razorbill - Image by Yash Kothiala

Black-legged Kittiwake - Image by Aseem Kothiala

Joyous moment was when we learnt that Puffins were still around to be seen— though fewer than what one would see during  the peak season. Almost every visitor to the cliff enquired about them. Obviously they seemed to be  one of Britain’s most loved seabirds, despite facing increasing pressures from declining sand eel populations, avian influenza and changing ocean conditions.

Atlantic Puffin - Image by Yash Kothiala

Down below they flew like darts (black in colour) turning swiftly back towards the lower parts of the cliff, a lifer, but flying far and low, every sighting produced the childish excitement within us. These charismatic little birds, often called “clowns of the sea,” seemed to have been done raising their chicks for this season. We got lucky when we sighted one, who popped out into view just long enough to make everyone nearby raise their binoculars in excitement. They have a remarkable ability to disappear the moment you point a camera at them—clearly a skill perfected over thousands of years. Glad it obliged and stayed longer that moment for us.

European Herring Gull - Image by Aseem Kothiala

A couple of Fulmars cruised effortlessly along the cliff face, barely moving a wing as they surfed invisible air currents.

As the sun began to sink lower, we were expecting the colour of the sky to get dramatically red and orange. However it had it own mood and was getting greyer and dull. White cliffs were missing the glowing sunshine today. Soon we could see the sea had swells and started to look rougher. The very reason the boat ride for pelagic was called off for today and tomorrow. 

Morning Session – Thursday, 23rd July

Returning the next morning felt like arriving at the same theatre before the audience had fully settled. The air was fresher, the light cleaner and the sea almost hypnotically calm but with huge swells. Morning birdwatching has a different rhythm, unlike the evening when the pace is mellow.

Western Barn Owl - Image by Yash Kothiala

Western Barn Owl - Image by Aseem Kothiala

One of the highlights came almost immediately—a beautiful Barn Owl silently quartering the fields. It’s one of those magical encounters that made us stop walking and simply watch. 

Away from the cliffs, the hedgerows were full of life. Reed Buntings, Corn Buntings, Linnets, Greenfinches, Robins and Blackbirds all made appearances, while a lone Sedge Warbler added its unmistakable song to the morning chorus. Swallows skimmed effortlessly overhead, Jackdaws called from the cliff tops, Carrion Crows patrolled the fields and a few Wood Pigeons wandered around looking as though they had absolutely nowhere urgent to be.

Eurasian Blackcap - Image by Aseem Kothiala

Reed Bunting - Image by Aseem Kothiala

Sedge Warbler - Image by Aseem Kothiala

Corn Bunting - Image by Yash Kothiala

Adult gannets were already commuting offshore. Most of the chicks had already grown and were ready to plunge for themselves. We could not witness them carrying food for the young. Kittiwakes seemed no quieter than the evening before—which is impressive considering they had apparently been shouting all night.

Guillemots continued their cliff-side balancing act, occasionally shuffling just enough to make observers instinctively hold their breath.

Guillemot - Image by Aseem Kothiala

The remaining Puffins made brief appearances, often carrying fish or disappearing into burrows before our cameras had finished focusing, eventually making us realise, Puffins possessed an uncanny ability to vanish exactly when autofocus finally locked in.

Atlantic Puffins - Image by Yash Kothiala

Away from the cliffs, Skylarks sang above the grassland while Linnets and Meadow Pipits flitted among the wildflowers. If fortune smiled, a Peregrine Falcon made a dramatic fly-past, instantly scattering thousands of seabirds into the air like confetti from nature’s own cannon. 

Birdwatching at Bempton wasn’t just about ticking species off an eBird list. It was more about standing on the edge of Yorkshire while life unfolds in every direction—thousands of wings overhead, endless conversations on the cliffs, the salty North Sea stretching to the horizon and the occasional Puffin reminding everyone that nature has an excellent sense of comic timing.

As we left on the morning of the 23rd, one thought lingered: no matter how many photographs you bring home, the soundtrack of Bempton—the cries of gannets, the chatter of kittiwakes and the constant bustle of the seabird city—is something no camera can truly capture.

The morning session recorded 18 species, including a Barn Owl, Peregrine Falcon, 12 Puffins, and several farmland birds, while the evening session was all about the classic Bempton seabirds—Gannets, Puffins, Guillemots, Razorbills, Fulmars, and Kittiwakes.

Bempton has a wonderful way of slowing you down. You arrive hoping to tick a few species off your list, but you leave having spent far more time simply watching, listening and appreciating one of the UK’s greatest wildlife spectacles.

The best part? Every visit is different. The birds change, the light changes, the weather changes—but Bempton never disappoints.

Happy Birding!

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Birding around the Island of Narcondam (Andaman and Nicobar, India)

India's easternmost island, is a small volcanic (now considered dormant) island that is situated in the northern Andaman Sea, adjoining the Andaman and Nicobar Islands. This island is called the Narcondam Island - The Pit of Hell (Maybe derived from the Tamil word Naraka-Kundram), which is also home to the endangered Narcondam Hornbill (Aceros narcondami), an endemic bird. (found only on this island)

The Narcondam hornbill is presently listed as “Internationally Vulnerable” and in CITES II list, the population has always been small, thought to be initially about 200 individuals. The latest estimate could be higher, at 295-320 (Information gathered from sources)

Narcondam Island on the Map (Source: Google)

During the March of 2021, we had visited the South Andaman and Great Nicobar (Click to read) for bird watching. Almost after three years we could plan to visit this island that is situated approximately 240 km (133 nautical miles) northeast of Port Blair, measuring approximately 7.6 square kilometres. Since years it has always been a rising favourite destination among bird watchers. Having many hidden secrets, untouched sceneries and a pristine landscape. The quest to see this bird in its natural habitat will remain an unforgettable experience for us through its ever-changing probabilities.

The probabilities began from the mid of September 2024, wherein I became a part of small group of ten birders who had planned a trip to Narcondam Islands.

Mid-October the day we landed Port Blair, that evening and the following morning we did some birding around the Garacharma wetlands and in the evening went around looking for the endemic species like the Andaman Nightjar and the Andaman Masked-Owl.

Andaman Nightjar

Andaman Masked Owl

The next day we set out on a speed boat by noon towards Rangat, a town situated in Middle Andaman. The ride on the speedboat was amazing and by early evening we had arrived the resort. We had to spend the following day here as weather conditions were not favourable to sail further to Narcondam Islands. Moreover, there are limitation on sailing out and sailing back into the jetty. The captain also informed us on the likely swell getting rough when we cross 94deg E Longitude  (a channel that separates Diglipur and Narcondam Island). These terms did not make much sense to me, but sounded and made me feel like a sailor. 

While we were on the island, the team had planned to visit the location that was about 7-8 kms from the resort. Here we went birding along the road and could hear many calls and saw the Pale-footed bush-warbler. A bird that was a lifer for most of us. Hearing them was much easier than seeing them, it behaved more like a skulker and finally we saw an individual that was more bold than the other individuals. Only challenge was the spot could accommodate only 2-3 birders at one time. However all the birders could get a good glimpse and images of the bird turn by turn. 

Pale-Footed Bush-Warbler

Dhani Nallah Mangrove Walkway (Nature Walkway) was another birding location we visited just before the sunset. It is about one-kilometer long wooden boardwalk that twists and turns through the mangrove creeks. This walkway was one of the longest I had encountered. We could observe the diverse mangrove eco-system at one place. The walkway opened up to the pristine long beach- Dhani Nallah Beach, which is also popular as a hatchery ground for sea turtles. The place was infested with mosquitoes and wearing just a half sleeve shirt was not a good idea. Quickly walked back and waited for the other to join in. 

(Harish, Rahul, Vikram, Aseem, Sudhir, Yogish, Sudeshna, Manjula, Sudip, Noel and Krishnan)

Birding

Later while we were walking around the resort a fellow birder sighted the Chinese Sparrowhawk, who was hunting by staying low, later in the evening just after sundown we sighted the Andaman Scops-Owl and the Oriental Scops-Owl (Walden's). As we were going to have an early start the next day as the jetty was about 30 mins away from the resort called the day off.

Chinese Sparrowhawk

Andaman Scops-Owl

Oriental Scops-Owl (Walden's)

The day arrived and we sailed out at dawn towards the Narcondam Islands at 5am, the sea initially was calm as predicted but within a couple of hours starting to get rough and the captain had to manoeuver by lowering the speed. There came a time, when we were only about 30 odd nautical miles away, when the a storm came in. The cushions from the front deck flew into the area where we were seated. It rained as well and the speed boat was moving at less than 7-10 nautical miles per hour. At this speed, it was going to be difficult to reach the island and return to Rangat within the stipulated deadline (5PM). By now the weather had worsened, the waves were rising higher and water had started to gush in from the front deck. As the speedboat rocked, the engines also would take a dip and emerge from the waves. The captain by now was quite sure, the conditions are not favourable and gave us ten minutes to make up our minds and agree to his suggestion of turning back. The probabilities were again not on our side and soon we all gave our thumbs up to return back to Rangat. 

Even though we did not succeed, our spirits were high. On our return to the resort, we had a good session of singing wherein two birders rather three, turned out to be well trained musicians, many more joined in and the music session turned into an entertaining laughter ground as they changed the “ragas” into a “Juggalbandi” that I had never experienced before.

The next day morning we all returned from Rangat to Port Blair and flew back to our destinations. 

The probabilities did not end here, the group got active again in the month of December. This time we planned to sail again in the month of March. The same captain assured that the weather will be far calmer and to reduce the travel time, instead of Rangat, we will take the night halt at Diglipur. Once again we all got into the quest of see the Narcondam Hornbill.

All the birders from different cities and states assembled at the Chattam jetty in Port Blair. It gave us the alderine rush as if we were all on a mission. The sea got a little rough and we all started to relive the memories of the last visit. The journey was completed in four odd hours and we anchored at Diglipur by late afternoon. We went birding to Kalipur beach, we sighted the commoners of the region. 

Finally, the day arrived again, a new dawn, a new hope and we sailed towards the Narcondam Island. As we were having our packed breakfast, were informed that we have comfortably crossed the 10 deg channel and the sea was indeed very calm compared to any other day. In about three hours  we could see the island. Each one of us took their spot and gazed into the island as we kept get closer. 

It was like a dream come true and minutes later we reached very close to the island and could see the check-post. The island had no jetty and is uninhabited, except for a police outpost at the arrival point. A delegated sanctuary to the Narcondam Hornbill.

Check post at the Narcondam Island

As we had to refuel the boat, before we turn back and head back to Diglipur. The authorities paid us a visit and allowed us to stay anchored for an hour or so and remain on the boat.

We saw about eight to nine pairs of Narcondam Hornbill flying from one tree to another. There were instances when they would fly singularly along the coast of the island. Life on the island depicts that even after complete disaster, life springs up again. Possibly the dispersal of organisms to such islands, may occur by one of the three agencies: by wind, by sea or by animals (including birds). Many biologist believe wind is the most important. Is it by chance that these birds are found only on this island and are thriving along with other species. 

Narcondam Hornbill

During the brief time we were there, the team (from the speed boat), mentioned that until 2017 they had come here multiple times and described the unmanned lighthouse, that was established in 1983, which is now powered by batteries and solar panels. They also described a waterfall not far from the check-post. Reading some reports on the life on the island, did give us FOMO.

After waiting at the spot for about an hour and half, we felt content and started our journey back from Narcondam Islands to Diglipur. 

Harish, Sudeshna, Manjula, Rahul, Sudhir, Aseem, Nawal, Dr Salil, Subhadeep
and Yogish with the Narcondam Island in the background

The journey on the way back was even more exciting as we sighted the Long-tailed Jaeger, Jouanin's Petrel, White-tailed Tropicbird to name a few. Life between the waves was as excited as life on the Island. The group was on toes either at the captain's deck or on the from deck. The captain also kept an eye for birds as he raced towards the destination.

Long-tailed Jaeger

Black-naped Tern being chased by a fish

During our stay in Diglipur, the resort owner’s wife, a bird watcher told us about the sightings of the Beach thick-knee, which was a lifer to a few of us.

Plume-toed Swifts and Pacific Swallows were seen circling over the jetty in large numbers along with the Black-naped Terns.

Black-naped Tern

We had kept a buffer day during this trip, just in case if the weather was not favourable we would sail again towards the Narcondam Islands. As everything went well, we got a day to spend around Port Blair. Here we had a couple of more lifers, like the Javan-Pond Heron, Artic Warbler and the Chestnut-cheeked Starling. We would stop along every pond and water body to scan for the Javan-Pond Heron. As the specimens we would sight, were mostly in non-breeding plumage making it difficult to confirm. We clicked many images from different angles, most identified as Chinese Pond-Heron.

During this hunt for a lifer, we came across many other birds that are common to the region during this season like the Ruddy Kingfisher , Andaman Teal apart from the rarity and a lifer Arctic Warbler.

Ruddy Kingfisher 

Andaman Teal

Arctic Warbler

Finally we split into two teams, one who wanted to continue looking for the Javan- Pond Heron and the other who wanted to see the Chestnut-cheeked Starling. 

As dusk approached flocks of Daurian Starling's in hundreds would briefly circle and enter into the mangrove for roosting. These migratory birds get attacked by the House crows (typical territorial behaviour) hence some flocks would simply rush into their roasting ground without doing any formation. 

Realised later that only two or three Chestnut-cheeked Starling were being seen amongst the flock. So we were left only with one option, to "Spray and Pray" - a term coined to just take random photos of the flocks and later zoom in to see if any one of them is the bird we were looking for. 

Daurian Starling's - Formation

Daurian Starling's - Formation

At least in my set of images could not see the bird, though my fellow birder did get them. Well must have seen them but at that distance and given light conditions, should it be considered as a lifer will remain a challenge and a choice to be made. We sighted about hundred different species on the trip off which eight were lifers for me taking my India count to 1018 birds in the wild.

Refer : https://ebird.org/tripreport/360679

Time flies faster that we can think. The trip came to an end. Against all odds, we managed to see the most wanted Hornbill species and with this personally can claim that have seen and photographed all the Hornbiil's found in India.

Both the trips were done with the same crew, during Game fishing charter who had obtained the required angling permissions . One cannot and should not step on to the Narcondam Island. 

Thanking the entire group especially Harish Thangaraj, who was instrumental along with Sudip Simha for the continuous effort in keeping the group together. The entire crew and the captain who always kept safety the utmost priority and to their hospitality. Lastly to my fellow birders for making this trip memorable.

(Birders From L-R Manjula, Sudeshna, Krishnan, Nawal, Dr Salil, Amar, Harish, Sudhir, 
Yogish, Aseem, Sudip, Rahul and Subhadeep (still birding). Crew: Rymus, Ansal, Vivek)

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Happy Birding!

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