Birding in Phawngpui Blue Mountain National Park (Mizoram), INDIA

Over the last decade our journey into the various forests looking for different species of birds has been exhilarating. Our bird count had touched 987 (in India) after our recent trip and typically had the desire to reach the 1000 mark by the end of 2023. Each time, when we set out to find different species, the words of my Spiritual Master echo in my mind. “We are born for desires...fulfill them...the day you are without desires...Its Moksha (Sanskrit: मोक्ष Mokṣa; liberation) - Paramji Alias His Holiness.

With another destination and some birds on our mind, we left early in the morning by road from Dosdewa Forest, towards Aizawl, Mizoram. Mizoram as a state not only shares its land borders with Tripura, Assam, Manipur, Bangladesh and the Chin State of Burma, but also is one of the Seven Sister States in North Eastern part of India.  

In about an hour, we reached the Kanhmun Border Checkpost in Mizoram, by 0630hrs. We stopped here to obtain the Inner Line Permit. We were the only ones at this hour to request for the permits, the officer was very helpful and promptly issued the permits. The houses around the post were typically very different when compared to the ones in Assam, especially around the border.  Soon we set out on the road, that had started to twine and the elevation increased with each turn.  The hills around are steep (avg. height 1000 meters) and separated by rivers which flow either to the north or south creating deep gorges between the hill ranges. Between the gorges, the clouds could be seen floating endlessly. A breathing taking view kept moving along with us and it seemed the air whispered, take a break, make some memories.

Clouds floating endlessly - Mizoram

The road had two lanes only, but as there was no traffic, we were covering the distance as expected. Along the highway, at regular intervals we would see some local shops selling fruits and vegetables, that was managed by the local tribal folks. We stopped at one such location. To our surprise, none of them spoke English here and obviously we did not speak their language, we could only ask for fruits using the sign language. The place was somewhere near Zawlnuam, Mamit. Digi ji glanced and up and saw a very large flock of Amur Falcon, they were in hundreds, flying quite high but all of them in one direction, later they started to circle over a hill. Our equipment was all packed and tucked away as we were not expecting any major birding en route, obviously we were taken by surprise. As the flock was large, we had enough time to set up the equipment and take some record images.

Amur Falcon - Flock (Image by Aseem Kothiala)

Amur Falcon - (Image by Aseem Kothiala)

After being on the road for almost eight hours, we entered Aizawl town, just around lunch hours. The traffic was so civilised here. This is where we met our host cum naturalist for the region, Mr. Joe Thanga. His hospitality began from this very moment, first he drove us to a fine restaurant and later towards Sialsuk, which was another two and half hour drive from Aijwal. Prior to our destination, we transited  along the village of Muallungthuthe, which is famous as the Tropic of Cancer passes through its zone.

Tropic of Cancer

We reached the sunset point, just a few minutes prior to sundown. We witnessed  a serene view from the hillock. Far at the horizon as the sun was setting off the day, the entire mountain range turned into shades of orange and red. Finally as the sun set, we headed towards the Sialsuk village. 

On the dinner table we started to discuss and plan our itinerary, which had to be altered in a big way. Primary, we were to stay here in Sialsuk for two days and then drive into The Blue Mountain (Phawngpui) National Park, which is located in southeastern part of the state. Due to the rains this season the uphill road had turned into a downhill stream, after drying it had become very uneven and not worthy of even a bumpy drive. We were given to understand that instead of an hour’s drive, we will have to trek 5-6 hours to reach the park. Due to which we will need more time to reach and get down to the base. Joe also ensured that most target birds can be seen even at the Phawngpui National Park, commonly called as Far Pak by the locals.

The next day morning, we went around birding in the hills of Sialsuk. The Red-whiskered Bulbul were seen in large number, as we entered the trail, could hear the Spot-breasted Laughingthrush, who typically, would appear very briefly and disappear. From the thick canopy, we sighted a Black Eagle, who flew very close to us and finally, sat on a branch very high from where we were. A large mixed hunting party appeared and the forest was filled with their chirps, we could identify a few as the Grey-hooded Warbler, along with some other warblers that we could not identify due to low light. However we sighted a couple of Scarlet Minivet. White-throated Bulbul, and a few other birds were seen too. (Refer to eBird Check list). As we waited for the hunting party to come closer, sighted a small flock of Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrush going down hill, they managed to stay low and disappear into the thickets.

A couple of hours later, we decided to walk back towards the Mizo village. As we interacted with the residents here, discovered that most of them spoke English, unlike the tribals we had met when we entered the state. The area was covered with wild bamboo forests, many of which are largely unexploited. As we gazed into the open skies, sighted a small flock of Striated Swallow. We returned back to the camp, only to pack again and head out towards Sangau, which was a much larger village, situated in the Lawngtlai district.

Sangau, is close to India–Myanmar border and was chosen as our base camp by Joe Thanga. We had to drive almost nine hours plus to reach this place. Inspite the distance being a little less than 175 kilometers from Sialsuk, took us this long, due the major repairs that was being carried out. There were times when we could just see the brown dust that was rising due to movement of trucks carrying construction material, making us feel we were driving into an open desert. We crossed  the Kolodyne river that flows along the eastern side of the Park and also forms the international border with Myanmar. We stopped briefly along the road near Darzo to enjoy the sunset and finally reached our destination for the day by half past six in the evening.

Sunset near Darzo - Mizoram

The next morning, we packed just our very basic personal items, equipment and the supplies that would be needing over the next four nights and five days. Most important for us was to carry enough batteries for our equipment, as there would be no electricity at the Forest Rest House, Far Pak. We as decided were to trek towards the highest peak in Mizoram called the Phawngpui Peak (2,157 m), in the Blue Mountain. 

The trek began from the village at the base. The path was surely not worthy of drive, even by a four wheel drive (4x4) vehicle. As we kept climbing could see a large flock of Striated Swallow, perched on a wire, that was over the bed of clouds.

On the way towards Far Pak - Mizoram

The average annual rainfall here is around 350 centimeters, while the winters here are normally rain-free. We could see a lot of activity of birds within the sub-tropical broadleaf and tropical evergreen forest. We did see the Eyebrowed Thrush sitting high on the branch, that dived down and disappeared in no time. A little later we saw a Rufous-bellied Niltava, which did confuse us for a while as during this time of the year,  the Vivid Niltava is also seen. As we kept walking ahead we sighted the Scaly Thrush, though the sun was shining bright, we could hardly feel any heat due to the high and thick canopies that kept us in shade. The Green-tailed Sunbird was very active with its morning activities. Mrs Gould's Sunbird made a brief entry and flew away. At a distance a bird had perched itself, only later identified it as the Slaty-backed Flycatcher.

Slaty-backed Flycatcher - Image by Aseem Kothiala

We reached and waited at the starting point of the Phawngpui National Park, where Joe had arranged for a packed meals for us. We soon began the trek again and as we were reaching saw some amazing cliffs and patches of natural grasslands on the tableland also called as Far Pak.

Tableland, Far Pak, Mizoram

We offloaded all our bags at the Forest Rest House, Far Pak, which had proper three bedrooms (with attached washroom) a large living and dining area, the kitchen was outside.

Forest Rest House, Far Pak, Mizoram

The weather was great, so we quickly assembled our equipment and started to explore the area. We could see a semi-circular series of cliffs on the western side called Thlazuang Kham, which has a sharp edge and a deep gorge. We sighted a Black Eagle that was flying around from one cliff to another. 

Black Eagle - Image by Aseem Kothiala

Joe, suggested we relax after today's long trek and instead watch the sunset from this point. It was one of the finest we had ever seen. The saturation and hues in the sky were unmatched. The breeze was cool and the entire ambience was mesmerising.

Sunset at Phawngpui National Park - Mizoram

Our targets here was to see the endemic Chin Hills Wren-babbler, and a bird that had remained elusive for about 25 years, but was now being sighted since a couple of years, the Mount Victoria Babax. There are two options one has here, rather three options. One is to look for the birds on the tableland adjacent to the Forest Rest House, second take the forest trail that leads to the peak and third obviously the trail that leads one back to the base camp.

This morning we decided to take the trail that leads us back to the base camp, we could hear and see the Chin Hills Wren-babbler, three to four times, but wasn’t providing us the opportunity to make an image. From the edge where we stood, saw a large flock of House Swift and Asian House-martin fly around in an acrobatic flight pattern.

Near the Forest Rest House, we sighted the   Hume’s Treecreeper who would fly on to the bottom of the tree and quickly move up in a pattern that is not very predictable. 

Hume's Treecreeper - Image by Aseem Kothiala

By late morning we also sighted the Rufous-crowned Prinia another lifer for us. Grey Bushchat and the Little bunting was seen on good numbers here apart from Warblers, off which the Brown Bush Warbler was a lifer for us. We did sight the Assam Laughingthrush who were not as bold as the Striped Laughingthrush.

Rufous-crowned Prinia - Image by Aseem Kothiala

Buff-throated Warbler - Image by Aseem Kothiala

That evening we split in two groups, one explored the edge of the cliff and the other kept watching birds that were coming on to the chir-pine trees at Far Pak grasslands.We did trek towards the edge of another cliff far away, we could see a small flock of Flavescent Bulbul's here that would perch on a tree and fly off into the gorge.

Flavescent Bulbul - Image by Aseem Kothiala

Moments later, we were asked to reach the other cliff,  as they could hear the loud calls of the Mount Victoria Babax. The bird could be seen only at a particular angle along the edge. The bird had placed itself between two branches and well camouflaged. Took me a while to find the bird through my lens. Though it was at a distance, we were happy to get this lifer. 

Being a full moon day, even after the sunset, the natural ambient light enchanced the beauty of the forest, the cool wind, soft moon light and no network, one of the best combination we had been longing for a while. 

Full Moon - Mizoram

Today we took the trail towards the peak, walking through forests and negotiating the tunnels made of overgrown bamboo and high grass. By the end of the day we had sighted a few more lifers, the Crested Finchbill, Stripe-breasted Woodpecker to name a few (Refer to our eBird Checklist).

Crested Finchbill - Image by Aseem Kothiala

Stripe-breasted Woodpecker - Image by Aseem Kothiala

A lone Himalayan Griffons was seen soaring in the cloudy sky. By now we were getting accustomed to the tabletop and its surroundings. Marvelyn and Digi ji had identified a nice spot, the previous evening to photography the skulker - Chin Hill Wren-babbler. We came here in the morning and could see three different individuals. After making a couple of image, I decided to leave them and walk back towards the tabletop again.

Chin Hill Wren-babbler - Image by Aseem Kothiala

The day was even more special as we sighted three individuals of the Mount Victoria Babax, that gave us a nice sighting. We spent a lot of time watching them, as they moved from one tree to another. later like every other evening we returned to the cliff to watch the sun set.

Mount Victoria Babax - Image by Aseem Kothiala

The last Sunset - Phawngpui Blue Mountain National Park (Mizoram)

Being our last morning here at the camp here, we spent some time around the Forest Rest House and saw a lot of commoners which included the Whiskered Yuhia, Rufous-backed Sibia, Streak-breasted Scimitar-Babbler to name a few (Refer to our eBird Checklist). We then trekked back to the camp in Sangau to retire for the night, that took us around three to four hours. 

Finally, the next day morning, we headed back towards Aizwal, this time it took us almost twelve hours to reach Lengpui, a town near the airport. This time we came across many road side shops, the price tag was mentioned on the packet, it was unmanned, on can simply pick the items and leave the cash in money boxes, that were not even locked. An exemplary way to exhibit honesty and culture. 

It would be unfair not to mention Cabin Hotel in Hnahthial, where we had our meals onward and on the way back to Aizwal. The next morning we squeezed in a couple of hours for birding, prior to boarding the flight to Mumbai, India.

Bird watching in the Blue Mountains of Mizoram was truly an enchanting experience for us. The lush greenery and diverse ecosystem of the region provided a perfect habitat for a wide variety of bird species. From colorful songbirds to majestic raptors, the Blue Mountains did offer a rich tapestry of avian life waiting to be discovered. 

By the end of this trip, we had bagged 15 more lifers, taking the bird count in India above the 1000 mark!

Thanking my birding pals Seema Kothiala, Marveyln Diaz, Satish Thayapurath and Digvijay Singh Rathore. We missed our good friends Peter Lobo and Dr Ian D’souza, who were to be a part of this trip as well, but could not make it. Last but not the least we thank Mr. Joe Thanga, whose hospitality was top notch. Even in a place this far and remote, provided us with excellent facilities, clean rooms and good food. His team mates, Isak, Kiddy, Chhanuka were outstanding in their own very way.

Joe Thanga, Kiddy, Satish T, Isak, Marvelyn D, Digvijay R, Seema K, Chhanuka & Myself

 A short video on the habitat and birds, Thank you in advance for your time and comments.

 

Happy Birding!

You can connect with me 

 

    CAPRIMULGIFORMES: Apodidae   
1    Asian Palm Swift    Cypsiurus balasiensis
2    House Swift    Apus nipalensis
       
    CUCULIFORMES: Cuculidae   
3    Green-billed Malkoha    Phaenicophaeus tristis
       
    ACCIPITRIFORMES: Accipitridae   
4    Himalayan Griffon    Gyps himalayensis
5    Black Eagle    Ictinaetus malaiensis
       
    PICIFORMES: Picidae   
6    Stripe-breasted Woodpecker    Dendrocopos atratus
7    Crimson-naped Woodpecker    Dryobates cathpharius
       
    PICIFORMES: Ramphastidae   
8    Great Barbet    Psilopogon virens
9    Blue-throated Barbet    Psilopogon asiaticus
       
    PSITTACIFORMES: Psittaculidae   
10    Vernal Hanging Parrot    Loriculus vernalis
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Campephagidae   
11    Scarlet Minivet    Pericrocotus flammeus
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Vireonidae   
12    Himalayan Shrike-babbler    Pteruthius ripleyi
13    White-browed Shrike-Babbler    Pteruthius aeralatus
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Dicruridae   
14    Ashy Drongo    Dicrurus leucophaeus
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Monarchidae   
15    Black-naped Monarch    Hypothymis azurea
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Dicaeidae   
16    Plain Flowerpecker    Dicaeum concolor
17    Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker    Dicaeum cruentatum
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Nectariniidae   
18    Little Spiderhunter    Arachnothera longirostra
19    Fire-tailed Sunbird    Aethopyga ignicauda
20    Green-tailed Sunbird    Aethopyga nipalensis
21    Mrs. Gould's Sunbird    Aethopyga gouldiae
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Irenidae   
22    Orange-bellied Leafbird    Chloropsis hardwickii
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Motacillidae   
23    Olive-backed Pipit    Anthus hodgsoni
24    White Wagtail    Motacilla alba
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Emberizidae   
25    Little Bunting    Schoeniclus pusillus
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Stenostiridae   
26    Yellow-bellied Fairy-fantail    Chelidorhynx hypoxanthus
27    Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher    Culicicapa ceylonensis
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Paridae   
28    Green-backed Tit    Parus monticolus
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Cisticolidae   
29    Rufous-crowned Prinia    Prinia khasiana
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Locustellidae   
30    Brown Bush Warbler    Locustella luteoventris
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Hirundinidae   
30    Asian House Martin    Delichon dasypus
31    Striated Swallow    Cecropis striolata
32    Wire-tailed Swallow    Hirundo smithii
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Pycnonotidae   
33    White-throated Bulbul    Alophoixus flaveolus
34    Ashy Bulbul    Hemixos flavala
35    Mountain Bulbul    Ixos mcclellandii
36    Black Bulbul    Hypsipetes leucocephalus
37    Crested Finchbill    Spizixos canifrons
38    Striated Bulbul    Pycnonotus striatus
39    Black-crested Bulbul    Pycnonotus melanicterus
40    Red-whiskered Bulbul    Pycnonotus jocosus
41    Red-vented Bulbul    Pycnonotus cafer
42    Flavescent Bulbul    Pycnonotus flavescens
43    Large Niltava    Niltava grandis
44    Small Niltava    Niltava macgrigoriae
45    Oriental Magpie Robin    Copsychus saularis
46    Rufous-bellied Niltava    Niltava sundara
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Phylloscopidae   
47    Buff-barred Warbler    Abrornis pulcher
48    Buff-throated Warbler    Phylloscopus subaffinis
49    Grey-hooded Warbler    Seicercus xanthoschistos
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Aegithalidae   
50    Black-throated Tit    Aegithalos concinnus
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Zosteropidae   
51    Stripe-throated Yuhina    Yuhina gularis
52    Whiskered Yuhina    Yuhina flavicollis
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Timaliidae   
53    Chin Hills Wren Babbler    Spelaeornis oatesi
54    Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler    Pomatorhinus ruficollis
       
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Leiothrichidae   
55    Spot-breasted Laughing-thrush    Garrulax merulinus
56    Assam Laughingthrush    Trochalopteron chrysopterum
57    Lesser Necklaced Laughing-thrush    Garrulax monileger
58    Greater Necklaced Laughing-thrush    Garrulax pectoralis
59    Mount Victoria Babax    Pterorhinus woodi
60    Striped Laughing-thrush    Trochalopteron virgatum
61    Grey Sibia    Heterophasia gracilis
62    Rufous-backed Sibia    Leioptila annectens
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Certhiidae   
63    Hume's Treecreeper    Certhia manipurensis
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Sittidae   
64    White-tailed Nuthatch    Sitta himalayensis
65    Velvet-fronted Nuthatch    Sitta frontalis
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Muscicapidae   
66    Hill Blue Flycatcher    Cyornis banyumas
67    Rufous-bellied Niltava    Niltava sundara
68    Verditer Flycatcher    Eumyias thalassinus
69    Slaty-backed Flycatcher    Ficedula sordida
70    Blue Rock Thrush    Monticola solitarius
71    Grey Bushchat    Saxicola ferreus
72    Little Pied Flycatcher    Ficedula westermanni
73    Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush    Monticola rufiventris
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Turdidae   
74    Scaly Thrush    Zoothera dauma
75    Eyebrowed Thrush    Turdus obscurus
       

Read More

Birding in Kashmir - Valley of Paradise!

Kashmir is one of the most scenic and also the most controversial tourist destinations in India. Many refer to it as the Alps of India and the Valley of Paradise!

The region boasts of some exotic locations including the serene Dal Lake in Srinagar, the summer capital of the state Jammu and Kashmir. Hemmed in by the western Himalayan range and the Pir Panjal Mountains surely the region is closer to a few neighbouring countries than to some of the states in India. In the north, Gulmarg and Pahalgam are attractions for skiers and trekkers who travel in from far and wide during winters.

We had different plans as always this winter, we came in here on a direct flight to Srinagar from the city of Mumbai to see the endemic birds and the birds that fly in as winter migrants from regions as far as the Artic.  

Srinagar is the city of gardens which blossom during the summer. Down and away from the Dal lakeshore are the Botanical gardens, where we came every evening to watching the birds that come and roost including a flock of Blyth's Rosefinch apart from many commoners of the region.

Being our first ever birding trip to the region, our naturalist Ansar Ahmed planned and spaced out our itinerary to ensure we covered the IBA (Important Bird Area's) during our six day long trip (9th Feb to 14th Feb 2023) 

The evening of 9th Feb we did our first excursion to the Botanical Gardens, it was drizzling when we started the trek along the edge of the garden from the entrance, till we reached the core area, it had started to pour!

Yusmarg (2,396m)

The drive was under two hours by car that lead through the Charari Sharief town towards Yusmarg from Srinagar city. Just about 13-14 kms before we could reach the destination, realised the road was closed due to snowfall. We decided to trek for another 1-2 kms along the road. The habitat was amazing on one side of the road, tall pine trees and as wind blew could see the flakes fall off while on the other side were the apple trees that were dormant and had lost all its leaves and there was no activity of birds except for the large-billed crows and stray sightings of Blue-Whistling Thrushes.

Blue Whistling-ThrushMyophonus caeruleus

We heard a White-cheeked Nuthatch call from the tip of the Pine tree that is an evergreen conifer tree and seen in large numbers in the region away from the confines of the mundane, Yusmarg is a little paradise in its own right.

Low on activity we decided to trek back to the place we had left our vehicle and drive towards the town of Budgam.

The district of Budgam extends to both mountainous and plain areas of varying heights and has an average altitude 1610 m.

The majestic Kashmiri Chinar, locally called 'Bouin' is the symbol of the valley and signifies the heritage and grandeur of Kashmiri civilization.. The mighty tree is found in almost every village across Kashmir. It is said that the oldest Chinar tree in Kashmir is around 700 years old and one such tree was home to the Tawny Owl. Winter has its advantages in a way, no leaves for the bird to hide making it easy to sight. There was a very large flock of Eurasian Jackdaw's that were calling out loud a few trees away where this bird quietly kept basking in the sun and keeping a watch on onlookers like us. 

Tawny OwlStrix aluco

Enroute back to the city Ansar took us on a small hill where the Imperial Eagles were roosting, there were a couple of them, who were circling a dump yard along with Black Kites. The later can be seen in very large numbers all across the region. We did sight a few steppe eagles as well. The climb up was not too easy as it seemed, the loose mud made the boots heavy and inversely reduced the grip uphill. Suddenly the extra layered jackets seemed unnecessary due to heat generated that was after effects of the climb. 

Steppe EagleAquila nipalensis

Later part of the day was spent near a canal, where we sighted Moorhens and Grey-headed Swamphens in very large number. Occasional we could see the Common snipes that were being flushed out by the stray dogs, who were looking for a quick fresh snack. They seemed very confident and had adapted themselves to hunting in the shallow reeds. Here we did sight the Water Rail who soon disappeared and did not come out in the open.

Water RailRallus aquaticus

Lake Wular (1,580m)

Two weeks prior to our landing, a group of five Long-tailed Duck's had arrived here and created thrill and excitement amongst many. The species could have probably migrated from either Europe or Artic region. It was recorded again after the year 1939 claimed Irfan Jeelani, who was with us today as our naturalist. 

Lake Wular in the valley has an area of 189 sq kms, making it the largest freshwater lake in Asia. The drive towards the northwest of Srinagar City is very scenic. Surprisingly the birding was very low along the road to the lake. The lake and its surrounding extensive marshes have an important natural wildlife. The rivers Bohnar, Madamati and Erin from the mountain ranges and the rivers Vetasta (Jhelum) and the Ningal from the south bring hundreds of tons of silt into the lake every year.

We had to climb down a steep hill, where Shaukat (boatman) was waiting to take us around. It was cold the temperatures were below zero deg C. The wind was cutting through and the visibility was low as well. We were having mixed feelings as we learnt that only a single individual was being seen out of the five. As it was alone was moving around with a mixed flock of Common Pochard's and Eurasian Coot's and had become very shy. 

Long-tailed DuckClangula hyemalis

After moving deep into the lake, did sight the bird, but it would take flight, circle over us and settle across the other bank, that was far. In an instance, we switched off the engine and requested Shaukat to just paddle us closer. This resulted we moved into a very shallow area and got literally stuck. Though at some places the depth was not much could just get ourselves out without much trouble. 

After a couple of hours we did to get to see the rarity and headed back to the shore. By now the weather had started to get clear. Here we had a local delicacy (Masala Tchot) which surely seemed like a whole meal and can be related to a bread roll stuffed with hummus and spices.

As any other day we headed back to the Botanical Garden in the city, before we head back to the Hotel and retire for the day. 

Dachigam National Park (1,676m ~ 4267m)

Dachigam National Park was our destination for the day, located not far from Srinagar. Dachigam literally stands for ‘ten villages’, which could be in memory of the ten villages that were relocated in order to create the park. After taking appropriate permissions we reached the main gate it the morning. Today we were to take a battery operated vehicle into the park. On the way back we were to trek back to the main gate. The weather was even colder than the previous days. As we started to move into the park, it started to snow. Our target for the day was Orange Bullfinch, its the only time of the year when this species comes lower in altitude.

We intended to see the Orange Bullfinch that has a very limited range in northern India. It’s only in the winters that they descend to a lower altitude and can seen in areas around Srinagar, Kashmir. Though it was snowing heavily found this male to our delight along the paved path. We not only sighted the Orange Bullfinch, Black-and-yellow Grosbeak but also the Chestnut Thrush and Black-throated Thrush. Himalayan Bulbul's were seen in very large numbers (compared to other bird species) As we had sighted most the birds we could, decided to skip the trek and use the same vehicle to drop us back to the main gate. It was my shortest ever stay in any National Park.

Orange BullfinchPyrrhula aurantiaca

Black-and-yellow GrosbeakMycerobas icterioides

Luck was on our side so we could take time off and head towards the city and reached a nice patch of field where we got good glimpses of the Rufous-backed redstart commonly called as Eversmann's Redstart. The birds here were busy foraging and got to see a flock of Red-billed Chough. The lonely Black-throated Accentor would appear once a while and disappear into the thickets of the shrubs. Eurasian Wren, House Sparrow and Streaked Laughingthrush's were seen in good numbers here.

Black-throated AccentorPrunella atrogularis

Rufous-backed RedstartPhoenicurus erythronotus

Today being a Sunday, Ansar suggested and we agreed to skip the visit to the Botanical Gardens and spend the evening in the cozy room instead.

Kangan (1,810m)

We were closing closer to the end of the trip and we were yet to the sight the endemic Kashmir Nuthatch and few other migratory species. so today again it was Irfan who was to accompany us to the region where we could possibly see them.

After driving towards Sonmarg (another famous tourist destination) crossed the town of Kangan, here we decided to park off and talk a walk into a small patch of forest. The snow was knee deep in some parts and gladly had the shoes and gaiters in place that ensured the walk was easy!

After a while Irfan heard it call. It was busy foraging and hoping, twisting and moving swiftly between the branches. Here we also sighted the mixed flock of Coal Tit, Cinereous Tit. 

Kashmir NuthatchSitta cashmirensis

Later we drove back towards the town and this time we walked along some fields and along the Sindh river. The region was an excellent habitat for the buntings, who were grazing in flocks and in regular intervals were taking off to distant regions and in a while would emerge again. There were instances when we would accidentally flush them from their foraging groups, as they camouflage so well. 

Along the river we sighted the Ibisbill, Little forktail. As we were returning in the evening sighted the Brambling, Pine Bunting and Yellowhammer roosting on adjoining trees. The birds that seemed difficult to approach were now roosting in front of us.

Pine BuntingEmberiza leucocephalos

BramblingFringilla montifringilla

YellowhammerEmberiza citrinella

Srinagar City (1600m)

Today we spent the day just around the Botanical Garden that were situated around the base of a hill overlooking Dal Lake. From within the gardens we crossed over to tulip gardens, the well paved road made up of concrete along the side of the garden ensured we took a stress free walk. Compared to the other Mughal Garden's, this one is quiet and peaceful and it surely had more variety of birds. Ansar along with Reyan and Irfan had anticipated the sighting of the Common Chaffinch as the same were seen on the previous evening as well. 

Common ChaffinchFringilla coelebs

For a change today the weather was clear and just as evening approached sighted the bird, there were two of them, so acted like show stoppers, posing on a branch for sometime and moving on the next, in 10-15 minutes they decided to roost within the trees and we moved further to catch a glimpse of the Blyth's Rosefinch again.

Blyth's RosefinchCarpodacus grandis

Pahalgam (2740m)

The birding trip had ended and had extended my stay to visit a few tourist location, Pahalgam was one of them. During my discussions with Ansar in Srinagar, recall he mentioning that if one tries can probably sight the Kashmir Nutcracker here. He referred me to Ishaq Lone who is an excellent naturalist for the region. After breakfast, we first went birding around the Yanner Bridge, the water levels had risen to had to cross a couple of streams by foot. The water was surely super chilled and sent cold waves across the body!

Black-crested TitPeriparus ater melanolophus

Here we sighted the Variegated Laughingthrush in large numbers along with the streaked Laughingthrush. Later we drove into the outskirts of the Overa-Aru Wildlife Sanctuary. The place was buried in snow and managed to get to the region from where the tall pine trees were visible. Rufous-naped Tit, Cinereous Tit, White-cheeked Nuthatch and the large billed crows were seen. After trekking for more than 2 hours we had lost hope of sighting the Kashmir Nutcracker.

Rufous-naped TitPeriparus rufonuchalis

In a faint voice, Ishaq whispered and said I can hear the calls and moments later we sighted it on the tip of the tree, it was carrying something in its mouth and was being chased by the Large-billed Crows, could see it through the lens and took some record images. 

Kashmir NutcrackerNucifraga multipunctata

Later we trekked back and went birding along the Lidder river and sighted the Brown dipper and a pair of Ibisbill to name a few. 

Sharing the detailed checklists on:  https://ebird.org/india/tripreport/108711

Team:

The trip came to an end with a list of 71 birds (16 lifers) by the end of day six, Ansar Ahmed had been an excellent tour leader, who knew the locations where we could possibly find the birds we wanted to see, he also made fabulous arrangements for our lodging and boarding. The other team of co-birders Irfan Jeelani, Reyan Sofi, Ishaq Lone were very knowledgeable on the habitat and birds. Shaukat  on the wheels was very entertaining and played songs that were very romantic. So we ended up calling him "Shauken Shaukat". Last but not least would like to thank my fellow birder Satish Thayapurath, Dr Ian D'souza who as always were great partners in this trip.

Satish T, Ansar Ahmed, Jagjit Singh, Reyan Sofi, Dr Ian D'souza, Irfan Jeelani and Myself (L-R)

Route:

Happy Birding!

You can connect with me 

	ANSERIFORMES: Anatidae
1	Mallard	Anas platyrhynchos
2	Green-winged Teal	Anas crecca
3	Common Pochard	Aythya ferina
4	Long-tailed Duck	Clangula hyemalis	Rare/Accidental
	PODICIPEDIFORMES: Podicipedidae
5	Little Grebe	Tachybaptus ruficollis
	COLUMBIFORMES: Columbidae
6	Rock Pigeon	Columba livia
	GRUIFORMES: Rallidae
7	Water Rail	Rallus aquaticus
8	Eurasian Moorhen	Gallinula chloropus
9	Eurasian Coot	Fulica atra
10	Gray-headed Swamphen	Porphyrio poliocephalus
	CHARADRIIFORMES: Ibidorhynchidae
11	Ibisbill	Ibidorhyncha struthersii
	CHARADRIIFORMES: Charadriidae
12	Red-wattled Lapwing	Vanellus indicus
	CHARADRIIFORMES: Scolopacidae
13	Common Snipe	Gallinago gallinago
14	Common Sandpiper	Actitis hypoleucos
	CHARADRIIFORMES: Laridae
15	Black-headed Gull	Chroicocephalus ridibundus
	PELECANIFORMES: Ardeidae
16	Gray Heron	Ardea cinerea
17	Indian Pond-Heron	Ardeola grayii
	ACCIPITRIFORMES: Accipitridae
18	Himalayan Griffon	Gyps himalayensis
19	Imperial Eagle	Aquila heliaca
20	Black Kite	Milvus migrans
	STRIGIFORMES: Strigidae
21	Tawny Owl	Strix aluco
	CORACIIFORMES: Alcedinidae
22	Common Kingfisher	Alcedo atthis
23	White-throated Kingfisher	Halcyon smyrnensis
24	Pied Kingfisher	Ceryle rudis
	PICIFORMES: Picidae
25	Brown-fronted Woodpecker	Dendrocoptes auriceps
26	Himalayan Woodpecker	Dendrocopos himalayensis
27	Scaly-bellied Woodpecker	Picus squamatus
	PSITTACIFORMES: Psittaculidae
28	Alexandrine Parakeet	Psittacula eupatria
29	Rose-ringed Parakeet	Psittacula krameri
	PASSERIFORMES: Corvidae
30	Yellow-billed Blue-Magpie	Urocissa flavirostris
31	Kashmir Nutcracker	Nucifraga multipunctata
32	Red-billed Chough	Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax
33	Eurasian Jackdaw	Corvus monedula
34	House Crow	Corvus splendens
35	Large-billed Crow	Corvus macrorhynchos
	PASSERIFORMES: Paridae
36	Coal Tit (Black-Crested)	Periparus ater melanolophus
37	Rufous-naped Tit	Periparus rufonuchalis
38	Cinereous Tit	Parus cinereus
	PASSERIFORMES: Pycnonotidae
39	Himalayan Bulbul	Pycnonotus leucogenys
40	Black Bulbul	Hypsipetes leucocephalus
	PASSERIFORMES: Phylloscopidae
41	Lemon-rumped Warbler	Phylloscopus chloronotus
	PASSERIFORMES: Aegithalidae
42	Black-throated Tit	Aegithalos concinnus
	PASSERIFORMES: Zosteropidae
43	Indian White-eye	Zosterops palpebrosus
	PASSERIFORMES: Leiothrichidae
44	Streaked Laughingthrush	Trochalopteron lineatum
45	Variegated Laughingthrush	Trochalopteron variegatum
	PASSERIFORMES: Sittidae
46	Kashmir Nuthatch	Sitta cashmirensis
47	White-cheeked Nuthatch	Sitta leucopsis
	PASSERIFORMES: Certhiidae
48	Bar-tailed Treecreeper	Certhia himalayana
	PASSERIFORMES: Troglodytidae
49	Eurasian Wren	Troglodytes troglodytes
	PASSERIFORMES: Cinclidae
50	Brown Dipper	Cinclus pallasii
	PASSERIFORMES: Sturnidae
51	Common Myna	Acridotheres tristis
	PASSERIFORMES: Turdidae
52	Chestnut Thrush	Turdus rubrocanus
53	Black-throated Thrush	Turdus atrogularis
	PASSERIFORMES: Muscicapidae
54	Blue Whistling-Thrush	Myophonus caeruleus
55	Little Forktail	Enicurus scouleri
56	Plumbeous Redstart	Phoenicurus fuliginosus
57	Rufous-backed Redstart	Phoenicurus erythronotus
58	White-capped Redstart	Phoenicurus leucocephalus
	PASSERIFORMES: Prunellidae
59	Black-throated Accentor	Prunella atrogularis
	PASSERIFORMES: Passeridae
60	House Sparrow	Passer domesticus
	PASSERIFORMES: Motacillidae
61	White Wagtail	Motacilla alba
	PASSERIFORMES: Fringillidae
62	Common Chaffinch	Fringilla coelebs
63	Brambling	Fringilla montifringilla
64	Black-and-yellow Grosbeak	Mycerobas icterioides
65	Blyth's Rosefinch	Carpodacus grandis
66	Orange Bullfinch	Pyrrhula aurantiaca
67	Plain Mountain Finch	Leucosticte nemoricola
68	European Goldfinch	Carduelis carduelis
69	Fire-fronted Serin	Serinus pusillus
	PASSERIFORMES: Emberizidae
70	Yellowhammer	Emberiza citrinella
71	Pine Bunting	Emberiza leucocephalos

Read More