Birding in Namdapha National Park

A journey into Namdapha National Park had been on my mind for a while, actually ever since we first visited the eastern state of Arunachal Pradesh in the mid of 2017

As it's said, desire and forget and soon it shall get fulfilled. One fine morning got a message from Mr. Peter Lobo, asking if we would be interested in doing a trip to one of the richest national park in terms of variety in flora and fauna in the entire Indian Subcontinent. Obviously the answer was certainly yes.

The entire trip starting and ending at the base of snowcapped Dapha Bum, in the spectacular valley of the Noa-Dihing was to be done on foot. 

Dibrugarh being the closest airport to the region was the obvious choice to fly into from Mumbai. We on landing drove into a small town in Changlang district in Arunachal Pradesh, which was not too far from the Assam border called Miao. 

The inland passes to allow us cross the border were obtained prior to our travel from the online portal ( https://www.arunachalilp.com/index.jsp )

Miao, is where we stayed before reaching Deban the following morning and started the journey into Namdapha Tiger Reserve. Over the next five days, we were to trek through the forest's buffer area crossing small streams and vast grasslands. The core area is not accessible for general wildlife enthusiasts and needs much more time, planning and permissions.

The team comprised of (L~R) by Yash Kothiala, Rofikul Islam, Bhupesh Goyal, Aseem Kothiala (myself), Ashok Sanskrit, Peter Lobo, Marvelyn Dias, Natalie Tooley, Ravi Mekola and Japang Pansa.

Entire logistics for this "Adventure Namdapha" like arranging for porters, camping equipment, food supplies and most required leech socks for the trip was managed and provided by Peter Sir. 

DAY ONE: (9th Dec 2019)

It all started after having an excellent breakfast at the Deban Forest Guest House in the early hours of the day. After walking for few minutes, Noa-Dihing river (a tributary of Brahmaputra) arrived and we crossed it using a small boat and set towards the hilly regions through the trail into the forest.

Peregrine falcon (Falco peregrinus peregrinator) - Image by Aseem Kothiala

As we walked, the journey took us through the spectacular lofty forests which was dense, bamboo thickets, river and small streams, sometime over boulders and fallen trees upto Hornbill camp.

Bamboo forest - Image by Japang Pansa

The trek upto Hornbill (approx 9Kms), where our halt for the first night was planned wasn't too difficult.  It had slight uphill and downhill, enroute we stopped for packed lunch at Haldibari. 

Jerdon's baza (Aviceda jerdoni) - Image by Aseem Kothiala

Being in the lower Eastern Himalayan belt,  the national park provided a beautiful view of the nearby peaks in the start; it was surely perfect for someone who would like to do forest trekking. Though we were here looking for rarities and endemic birds. 

The habitat within the region changed as we kept trekking from knotted creepers and dense undergrowth followed with enormous Hollock, Mekai and Hollong plants. Due to the large canopy, sunlight at most places was less and the bird calls were coming from high and far.

Streaked Wren Babbler (Napothera brevicaudata) - Image by Aseem Kothiala

"Though its the third largest national park in the country, area-wise, Namdapha National Park surely was the Mother of all forest" said Ashok Sanskrit. Who was visiting the region for the third time!

Japang mentioned that the name of the park itself 'Namdapha' is a combination of two Singpho words which meant 'Forest Keeping' indicating that conservation of forests was the primary objective of the tribals as well as the locals of the area.

Snowy-browed Flycatcher (Ficedula hyperythra) - Image by Ashok Sanskrit

By 4PM we reached the Hornbill camp (approx altitude 500m). The tents for all of us were already pitched and ready. The kitchen was ready too and dinner was being prepared by the team that had crossed us while we were having lunch. 

It was time for some hot snacks and hot beverage. Within few minutes it was dark. The sun rises and sets faster in the entire north-east compared to the other region of the country. As it got dark, we set out again on the trail and were lucky to sight a leopard cat. It kept waiting and moved around to settle down. It was only from one window in the thickets we could see it.

Leopard Cat (Prionailurus bengalensis) - Image by Aseem Kothiala

Leopard Cat (Prionailurus bengalensis) - Image by Aseem Kothiala

The silence of the night increased, we returned to our camp to have our dinner and as were thinking of retiring for the night, Japang informed he had heard and seen a flying squirrel. Excitement mounted as we were expecting to see the Namdapha flying squirrel. However, it was later confirmed by my fellow birder its a sub species of Red Giant Flying squirrel called Grey-faced Flying Squirrel.

 Red Giant Flying Squirrel (Petaurista petaurista candidula) - Image  by Aseem Kothiala

Red Giant Flying Squirrel (Petaurista petaurista candidula) - Image  by Aseem Kothiala

We set into the cosy sleeping bags placed in our tents by 7.30PM itself.

DAY 2: (10th Dec 2019)

Though we woke up very early (4.00am), started to trek towards the next destination Firmbase (14 kms) which is located on the Noa-Dihing river bank only at about at 7am. The trail today got tougher and many places were so difficult, that had to use actually crawl up to negotiate the slopes.

We were lucky, the weather had been good and wasn't raining. As the rains would have not only made the trek difficult but also would have ensured the count of leeches to increase. The temperatures during the day was around 17~19 deg centigrade and nights were cooler at around 11~13 deg centigrade.  

Enroute, we could hear the calls of the skulker Snowy throated babbler, it indeed was one of the fastest disappearing birds that I had come across. Before one can watch through the viewfinder, they would call and fly off to another perch.

Snowy-throated Babbler (Stachyris oglei) - Image by Rofikul Islam

Peter sir has been coming to the region for almost two decades and along with Japang had seen many mammal species from the cat family. He said "its home to rare five species of hornbills" 

The whooshing sound of the flapping hornbills was heard often, though finding them in the canopies wasn't easy. 

Wreathed Hornbill. (Rhyticeros undulatus) - Image by Ravi Mekola

Soon we sighted a flock of Brown Hornbills, who kept circling, perching, calling and moving from one tree to the next tree in the canopy.

Austen's Brown Hornbill (Ptilolaemus austeni) - Image by Peter Lobo

As we shoulder our cameras, our porters were carrying our essential supplies for the day. Even with their heavier loads, they walked with much more easy and definitely faster, obviously they had built their stamina for the terrain. 

It was almost evening and we were still a couple of kms away from the camp (firmbase). There was a mixed flock of white-hooded babbler's and rufous headed parrotbill's, who kept my fellow birders busy.

White-hooded Babbler (Gampsorhynchus rufulus) - Image by Bhupesh Goyal

Could hear some shutter clicks after a long gap. Birding is good but photographing birds wasn't very easy. One of the main reason we were walking in a faster pace as the distance to be covered was more, second the birds perch too high in the canopies.

Day had ended and few of us had walked away and already reached the camp, as Japang and a couple of assistants had walked back towards us to assist us with our cameras and backpacks. The last leg after Ranijheel (approx altitude 860m) was a little adventures. There was a steep descend that finally took us to Firmbase (approx altitude 430m) 

It was a long day and quite tiring too, but no sooner we unwound around the campfire, got into a different mood, it was Assamese music and hilarious monologues by almost every participant.

DAY 3 (11th DEC 2019) 

Today we set out towards the grasslands and a trek along the bank of Noa-Dihing to look for the majestic bird that dwells in isolation, the White-bellied Heron. 

After searching for a couple hours realised its not gong to be easy. As we did see some locals fishing and the bird is very shy and must have moved downwards. Taking a quick poll, it was an unanimous decision to look for it, instead of going back to the camp for lunch. 

The porter and assistants split. One set continued the journey with us to look for the bird, while the other moved towards the camp to bring in the packed lunch.

At a bend of the river sighted a pair of Smooth coated Otter who were in a playful mood, on seeing us moved a few boulders away and kept a watch on us.

Smooth-coated otter (Lutrogale perspicillata) - Image by Yash Kothiala

The terrain was amazing and could see some common species. 

Grasslands - Image by Yash Kothiala

The trek for the day was initially to be around 10Kms and now we were not sure, how much we would have to walk along the river bank.

It was well past 2PM and all of us felt drained and tired. Luckily, the weather was cloudy making it a lot easier.

Nao Dihing River - Image by Rofikul Islam

The last hope was to walk to a corner where its mostly seen. Great cormorants and a loner black stork was seen. 

By now packed lunch arrived, it was almost 3PM and we had to walk back and fast, a distance of about 10Kms to be done and it gets dark by 4.30 / 5 PM, started to trek back along the bank. 

Just a little ahead of the bamboo bridge made by the local tribe Marvelyn noticed and said in excitement there it is!

Bamboo Bridge - Image by Japang Pansa

White-bellied Heron (Ardea insignis) - image by Yash Kothiala

We had sighted the world's second largest heron which is presently critically endangered. 

White-bellied Heron (Ardea insignis) - Image by Yash Kothiala

The bird was very much in the open, just a couple of steps towards it and it took off. Thanks to the instinct of it being so shy, it is still surviving in the wild!

It was well past dark and Japang used his personal tracking skills to get back to the camp. today it was close to a 19 odd kms trek.

There were times, when my sole said enough but by soul said need to keep walking!

A day ended well, but we could not do any birding around Firmbase.

DAY 4 and Day 5 (12th DEC 2019 and 13th Dec 2019)

From today, we had to trek backwards towards Deban Forest Guest House via the same route, stopping overnight at Hornbill camp.

In the morning we heard the calls of the skulker Eyebrowed Wren Babbler, had to trek into the thickets.

Eyebrowed Wren Babbler (Napothera epilepidota) - Image by Yash Kothiala

Streaked Wren Babbler (Napothera brevicaudata) - Image by Ashok Sanskrit

Rufous-throated Fulvetta (Schoeniparus rufogularis) - image by Aseem Kothiala

Namdapha surely had a very healthy numbers of the Hoolock Gibbon, who would again call from the high canopies.

Hoolock gibbon - Image by Aseem Kothiala

The return journey seemed more easier enroute we sighted some more rarities.

Large Scimitar Babbler (Pomatorhinus hypoleucos) - Image by Aseem Kothiala

Slaty-bellied Tesia (Tesia olivea) - Image by Rofikul Islam

Most of the locals carried a handy dao (machete) they can work with it many ways to create all sorts of baskets to pipes, and utensils in no time. In fact they gifted us with bamboo cups as gifts.

The moment we reached Deban Forest Guest House, were informed that there has been some unrest and Assam was almost closed and under curfew.

Our second leg which was into Nagaland via Assam had to be called off and we all rescheduled our journey back home.

This trip was one of the finest, special thanks to Mr. Peter Lobo for organising and inviting us over. These were five days of no network (mobile or wifi) and full of fun and adventure. Even getting power supply was not possible, so had carried 3 sets of extra batteries for the cameras.

Rofikul Islam and Ravi Mekola along with Japang Pansa were excellent hosts and we look forward to meeting them again and often. 

Thanking all my fellow birders, Ashok Sanskrit, Marvelyn Dias, Bhupesh Goyal ji and Natalie Tooley in being a part of the adventure and also contributing images for the blog.

Last but not least thanking Yash Kothiala, who has always been a part of my journey to look for birds. This trip could get another nine lifers taking by life list to 893 birds. The list of birds we sighted during this trip are listed below.

	GALLIFORMES:   Phasianidae
1	White-cheeked Hill Partridge	Arborophila atrogularis	Near threatened
2	Grey Peacock Pheasant	Polyplectron bicalcaratum	(Heard)
3	Kalij Pheasant	Lophura leucomelanos
	COLUMBIFORMES: Columbidae
4	Ashy-headed Green-Pigeon	Treron phayrei
5	Barred Cuckoo Dove	Macropygia unchall
6	Pin-tailed Green Pigeon	Treron apicauda
7	Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon	Treron sphenurus
8	Asian Emerald Dove	Chalcophaps indica
	CAPRIMULGIFORMES: Apodidae
9	Himalayan Swiftlet	Aerodramus brevirostris
	PELECANIFORMES: Ciconiidae
10	Black Stork	Ciconia nigra
	PELECANIFORMES: Ardeidae
11	White-bellied Heron	Ardea insignis	Critically  endangered
	PELECANIFORMES: Phalacrocoracidae
12	Great Cormorant	Phalacrocorax carbo
	CHARADRIIFORMES: Haematopodidae
13	Ibisbill	Ibidorhyncha struthersii
	ACCIPITRIFORMES: Accipitridae
14	Jerdon's Baza	Aviceda jerdoni
15	Mountain Hawk Eagle	Nisaetus nipalensis
16	Shikra	Accipiter badius
	STRIGIFORMES: Strigidae
17	Collared Owlet	Glaucidium brodiei
	TROGONIFORMES: Trogonidae
18	Red-headed Trogon	Harpactes erythrocephalus
	BUCEROTIFORMES: Bucerotidae
19	Great Hornbill	Buceros bicornis	Vulnerable
20	Godwin Austen's Brown Hornbill	Ptilolaemus austeni	Near -threatened
21	Wreathed Hornbill	Rhyticeros undulatus	Vulnerable
	PICIFORMES: Picidae
22	White-browed Piculet	Sasia ochracea
23	Pale-headed Woodpecker	Gecinulus grantia
24	Bay Woodpecker	Blythipicus pyrrhotis
	PICIFORMES: Ramphastidae
25	Great Barbet	Psilopogon virens
26	Blue-throated Barbet	Psilopogon asiaticus
	CORACIIFORMES: Alcedinidae
27	Crested Kingfisher	Megaceryle lugubris
	PASSERIFORMES: Eurylaimidae
28	Long-tailed Broadbill	Psarisomus dalhousiae
29	Silver-breasted Broadbill	Serilophus lunatus
	PASSERIFORMES: Campephagidae
30	Scarlet Minivet	Pericrocotus flammeus
31	Black-winged Cuckooshrike	Lalage melaschistos
	PASSERIFORMES: Vireonidae
32	Blyth's Shrike-babbler	Pteruthius aeralatus
33	White-bellied Erpornis	Erpornis zantholeuca
	PASSERIFORMES: Oriolidae
34	Maroon Oriole	Oriolus traillii
	PASSERIFORMES: Vangidae
35	Large Woodshrike	Tephrodornis virgatus
	PASSERIFORMES: Dicruridae
36	Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo	Dicrurus remifer
37	Hair-crested Drongo	Dicrurus hottentottus
38	Greater Racket-tailed Drongo	Dicrurus paradiseus
	PASSERIFORMES: Rhipiduridae
39	White-throated Fantail	Rhipidura albicollis
	PASSERIFORMES: Corvidae
40	Grey Treepie	Dendrocitta formosae
41	Collared Treepie	Dendrocitta frontalis
	PASSERIFORMES: Nectariniidae
42	Little Spiderhunter	Arachnothera longirostra
43	Streaked Spiderhunter	Arachnothera magna
44	Black-throated Sunbird	Aethopyga saturata
	PASSERIFORMES: Irenidae
45	Asian Fairy-bluebird	Irena puella
46	Orange-bellied Leafbird	Chloropsis hardwickii
47	Blue-winged Leafbird	Chloropsis cochinchinensis
	PASSERIFORMES: Motacillidae
48	Olive-backed Pipit	Anthus hodgsoni
49	Paddyfield Pipit	Anthus rufulus
50	White Wagtail	Motacilla alba
	PASSERIFORMES: Stenostiridae
51	Yellow-bellied Fairy-fantail	Chelidorhynx hypoxanthus
52	Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher	Culicicapa ceylonensis
	PASSERIFORMES: Paridae
53	Sultan Tit	Melanochlora sultanea
	PASSERIFORMES: Cisticolidae
54	Yellow-bellied Prinia	Prinia flaviventris
	PASSERIFORMES: Pnoepygidae
55	Pygmy Wren Babbler	Pnoepyga pusilla
	PASSERIFORMES: Hirundinidae
56	Asian House Martin	Delichon dasypus
	PASSERIFORMES: Pycnonotidae
57	White-throated Bulbul	Alophoixus flaveolus
58	Ashy Bulbul	Hemixos flavala
59	Red-whiskered Bulbul	Pycnonotus jocosus
60	Red-vented Bulbul	Pycnonotus cafer
	PASSERIFORMES: Phylloscopidae
61	White-spectacled Warbler	Phylloscopus intermedius
	PASSERIFORMES: Scotocercidae
62	Slaty-bellied Tesia	Tesia olivea
63	Rufous-faced Warbler	Abroscopus albogularis
	PASSERIFORMES: Sylviidae
64	Rufous-headed Parrotbill	Psittiparus bakeri
65	Grey-headed Parrotbill	Psittiparus gularis
66	Pale-billed Parrotbill	Chleuasicus atrosuperciliaris
67	Striated Yuhina	Yuhina castaniceps
68	Black-chinned Yuhina	Yuhina nigrimenta
69	Rufous-vented Yuhina	Yuhina occipitalis
	PASSERIFORMES: Timaliidae
70	Spotted Elachura	Elachura formosa
71	Red-billed Scimitar Babbler	Pomatorhinus ochraceiceps
72	Slender-billed Scimitar Babbler	Pomatorhinus superciliaris
73	Large Scimitar Babbler	Pomatorhinus hypoleucos
74	Snowy-throated Babbler	Stachyris oglei	Vulnerable
75	Golden Babbler	Cyanoderma chrysaeum
	PASSERIFORMES: Pellorneidae
76	White-hooded Babbler	Gampsorhynchus rufulus
77	Rufous-throated Fulvetta	Schoeniparus rufogularis
78	Rufous-winged Fulvetta	Schoeniparus castaneceps
79	Streaked Wren Babbler	Turdinus brevicaudatus
80	Eyebrowed Wren Babbler	Napothera epilepidota
	PASSERIFORMES: Leiothrichidae
81	Lesser Necklaced Laughing-thrush	Garrulax monileger
82	Greater Necklaced Laughing-thrush	Garrulax pectoralis
83	Rufous-vented Laughing-thrush	Garrulax gularis
84	Long-tailed Sibia	Heterophasia picaoides
85	Silver-eared Mesia	Leiothrix argentauris
86	Rufous-backed Sibia	Leioptila annectens
87	Rusty-fronted Barwing	Actinodura egertoni
	PASSERIFORMES: Sittidae
88	Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch	Sitta castanea
89	Beautiful Nuthatch	Sitta formosa	Vulnerable
	PASSERIFORMES: Sturnidae
90	Hill Myna	Gracula religiosa
	PASSERIFORMES: Cinclidae
91	Brown Dipper	Cinclus pallasii
	PASSERIFORMES: Muscicapidae
92	Pale Blue Flycatcher	Cyornis unicolor
93	Small Niltava	Niltava macgrigoriae
94	Lesser Shortwing	Brachypteryx leucophris
95	Blue Whistling Thrush	Myophonus caeruleus
96	White-tailed Robin	Myiomela leucura
97	Snowy-browed Flycatcher	Ficedula hyperythra
98	Rufous-gorgetted Flycatcher	Ficedula strophiata
99	Slaty-blue Flycatcher	Ficedula tricolor
100	Pygmy Blue Flycatcher	Ficedula hodgsoni
101	Sapphire Flycatcher	Ficedula sapphira
102	Plumbeous Water Redstart	Rhyacornis fuliginosa
103	White-capped Water Redstart	Chaimarrornis leucocephalus
104	Daurian Redstart	Phoenicurus auroreus
105	Siberian Stonechat	Saxicola maurus
	FALCONIFORMES: Falconidae
106	Peregrine Falcon	Falco peregrinus