Birding in Phawngpui Blue Mountain National Park (Mizoram), INDIA

Over the last decade our journey into the various forests looking for different species of birds has been exhilarating. Our bird count had touched 987 (in India) after our recent trip and typically had the desire to reach the 1000 mark by the end of 2023. Each time, when we set out to find different species, the words of my Spiritual Master echo in my mind. “We are born for desires...fulfill them...the day you are without desires...Its Moksha (Sanskrit: मोक्ष Mokṣa; liberation) - Paramji Alias His Holiness.

With another destination and some birds on our mind, we left early in the morning by road from Dosdewa Forest, towards Aizawl, Mizoram. Mizoram as a state not only shares its land borders with Tripura, Assam, Manipur, Bangladesh and the Chin State of Burma, but also is one of the Seven Sister States in North Eastern part of India.  

In about an hour, we reached the Kanhmun Border Checkpost in Mizoram, by 0630hrs. We stopped here to obtain the Inner Line Permit. We were the only ones at this hour to request for the permits, the officer was very helpful and promptly issued the permits. The houses around the post were typically very different when compared to the ones in Assam, especially around the border.  Soon we set out on the road, that had started to twine and the elevation increased with each turn.  The hills around are steep (avg. height 1000 meters) and separated by rivers which flow either to the north or south creating deep gorges between the hill ranges. Between the gorges, the clouds could be seen floating endlessly. A breathing taking view kept moving along with us and it seemed the air whispered, take a break, make some memories.

Clouds floating endlessly - Mizoram

The road had two lanes only, but as there was no traffic, we were covering the distance as expected. Along the highway, at regular intervals we would see some local shops selling fruits and vegetables, that was managed by the local tribal folks. We stopped at one such location. To our surprise, none of them spoke English here and obviously we did not speak their language, we could only ask for fruits using the sign language. The place was somewhere near Zawlnuam, Mamit. Digi ji glanced and up and saw a very large flock of Amur Falcon, they were in hundreds, flying quite high but all of them in one direction, later they started to circle over a hill. Our equipment was all packed and tucked away as we were not expecting any major birding en route, obviously we were taken by surprise. As the flock was large, we had enough time to set up the equipment and take some record images.

Amur Falcon - Flock (Image by Aseem Kothiala)

Amur Falcon - (Image by Aseem Kothiala)

After being on the road for almost eight hours, we entered Aizawl town, just around lunch hours. The traffic was so civilised here. This is where we met our host cum naturalist for the region, Mr. Joe Thanga. His hospitality began from this very moment, first he drove us to a fine restaurant and later towards Sialsuk, which was another two and half hour drive from Aijwal. Prior to our destination, we transited  along the village of Muallungthuthe, which is famous as the Tropic of Cancer passes through its zone.

Tropic of Cancer

We reached the sunset point, just a few minutes prior to sundown. We witnessed  a serene view from the hillock. Far at the horizon as the sun was setting off the day, the entire mountain range turned into shades of orange and red. Finally as the sun set, we headed towards the Sialsuk village. 

On the dinner table we started to discuss and plan our itinerary, which had to be altered in a big way. Primary, we were to stay here in Sialsuk for two days and then drive into The Blue Mountain (Phawngpui) National Park, which is located in southeastern part of the state. Due to the rains this season the uphill road had turned into a downhill stream, after drying it had become very uneven and not worthy of even a bumpy drive. We were given to understand that instead of an hour’s drive, we will have to trek 5-6 hours to reach the park. Due to which we will need more time to reach and get down to the base. Joe also ensured that most target birds can be seen even at the Phawngpui National Park, commonly called as Far Pak by the locals.

The next day morning, we went around birding in the hills of Sialsuk. The Red-whiskered Bulbul were seen in large number, as we entered the trail, could hear the Spot-breasted Laughingthrush, who typically, would appear very briefly and disappear. From the thick canopy, we sighted a Black Eagle, who flew very close to us and finally, sat on a branch very high from where we were. A large mixed hunting party appeared and the forest was filled with their chirps, we could identify a few as the Grey-hooded Warbler, along with some other warblers that we could not identify due to low light. However we sighted a couple of Scarlet Minivet. White-throated Bulbul, and a few other birds were seen too. (Refer to eBird Check list). As we waited for the hunting party to come closer, sighted a small flock of Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrush going down hill, they managed to stay low and disappear into the thickets.

A couple of hours later, we decided to walk back towards the Mizo village. As we interacted with the residents here, discovered that most of them spoke English, unlike the tribals we had met when we entered the state. The area was covered with wild bamboo forests, many of which are largely unexploited. As we gazed into the open skies, sighted a small flock of Striated Swallow. We returned back to the camp, only to pack again and head out towards Sangau, which was a much larger village, situated in the Lawngtlai district.

Sangau, is close to India–Myanmar border and was chosen as our base camp by Joe Thanga. We had to drive almost nine hours plus to reach this place. Inspite the distance being a little less than 175 kilometers from Sialsuk, took us this long, due the major repairs that was being carried out. There were times when we could just see the brown dust that was rising due to movement of trucks carrying construction material, making us feel we were driving into an open desert. We crossed  the Kolodyne river that flows along the eastern side of the Park and also forms the international border with Myanmar. We stopped briefly along the road near Darzo to enjoy the sunset and finally reached our destination for the day by half past six in the evening.

Sunset near Darzo - Mizoram

The next morning, we packed just our very basic personal items, equipment and the supplies that would be needing over the next four nights and five days. Most important for us was to carry enough batteries for our equipment, as there would be no electricity at the Forest Rest House, Far Pak. We as decided were to trek towards the highest peak in Mizoram called the Phawngpui Peak (2,157 m), in the Blue Mountain. 

The trek began from the village at the base. The path was surely not worthy of drive, even by a four wheel drive (4x4) vehicle. As we kept climbing could see a large flock of Striated Swallow, perched on a wire, that was over the bed of clouds.

On the way towards Far Pak - Mizoram

The average annual rainfall here is around 350 centimeters, while the winters here are normally rain-free. We could see a lot of activity of birds within the sub-tropical broadleaf and tropical evergreen forest. We did see the Eyebrowed Thrush sitting high on the branch, that dived down and disappeared in no time. A little later we saw a Rufous-bellied Niltava, which did confuse us for a while as during this time of the year,  the Vivid Niltava is also seen. As we kept walking ahead we sighted the Scaly Thrush, though the sun was shining bright, we could hardly feel any heat due to the high and thick canopies that kept us in shade. The Green-tailed Sunbird was very active with its morning activities. Mrs Gould's Sunbird made a brief entry and flew away. At a distance a bird had perched itself, only later identified it as the Slaty-backed Flycatcher.

Slaty-backed Flycatcher - Image by Aseem Kothiala

We reached and waited at the starting point of the Phawngpui National Park, where Joe had arranged for a packed meals for us. We soon began the trek again and as we were reaching saw some amazing cliffs and patches of natural grasslands on the tableland also called as Far Pak.

Tableland, Far Pak, Mizoram

We offloaded all our bags at the Forest Rest House, Far Pak, which had proper three bedrooms (with attached washroom) a large living and dining area, the kitchen was outside.

Forest Rest House, Far Pak, Mizoram

The weather was great, so we quickly assembled our equipment and started to explore the area. We could see a semi-circular series of cliffs on the western side called Thlazuang Kham, which has a sharp edge and a deep gorge. We sighted a Black Eagle that was flying around from one cliff to another. 

Black Eagle - Image by Aseem Kothiala

Joe, suggested we relax after today's long trek and instead watch the sunset from this point. It was one of the finest we had ever seen. The saturation and hues in the sky were unmatched. The breeze was cool and the entire ambience was mesmerising.

Sunset at Phawngpui National Park - Mizoram

Our targets here was to see the endemic Chin Hills Wren-babbler, and a bird that had remained elusive for about 25 years, but was now being sighted since a couple of years, the Mount Victoria Babax. There are two options one has here, rather three options. One is to look for the birds on the tableland adjacent to the Forest Rest House, second take the forest trail that leads to the peak and third obviously the trail that leads one back to the base camp.

This morning we decided to take the trail that leads us back to the base camp, we could hear and see the Chin Hills Wren-babbler, three to four times, but wasn’t providing us the opportunity to make an image. From the edge where we stood, saw a large flock of House Swift and Asian House-martin fly around in an acrobatic flight pattern.

Near the Forest Rest House, we sighted the   Hume’s Treecreeper who would fly on to the bottom of the tree and quickly move up in a pattern that is not very predictable. 

Hume's Treecreeper - Image by Aseem Kothiala

By late morning we also sighted the Rufous-crowned Prinia another lifer for us. Grey Bushchat and the Little bunting was seen on good numbers here apart from Warblers, off which the Brown Bush Warbler was a lifer for us. We did sight the Assam Laughingthrush who were not as bold as the Striped Laughingthrush.

Rufous-crowned Prinia - Image by Aseem Kothiala

Buff-throated Warbler - Image by Aseem Kothiala

That evening we split in two groups, one explored the edge of the cliff and the other kept watching birds that were coming on to the chir-pine trees at Far Pak grasslands.We did trek towards the edge of another cliff far away, we could see a small flock of Flavescent Bulbul's here that would perch on a tree and fly off into the gorge.

Flavescent Bulbul - Image by Aseem Kothiala

Moments later, we were asked to reach the other cliff,  as they could hear the loud calls of the Mount Victoria Babax. The bird could be seen only at a particular angle along the edge. The bird had placed itself between two branches and well camouflaged. Took me a while to find the bird through my lens. Though it was at a distance, we were happy to get this lifer. 

Being a full moon day, even after the sunset, the natural ambient light enchanced the beauty of the forest, the cool wind, soft moon light and no network, one of the best combination we had been longing for a while. 

Full Moon - Mizoram

Today we took the trail towards the peak, walking through forests and negotiating the tunnels made of overgrown bamboo and high grass. By the end of the day we had sighted a few more lifers, the Crested Finchbill, Stripe-breasted Woodpecker to name a few (Refer to our eBird Checklist).

Crested Finchbill - Image by Aseem Kothiala

Stripe-breasted Woodpecker - Image by Aseem Kothiala

A lone Himalayan Griffons was seen soaring in the cloudy sky. By now we were getting accustomed to the tabletop and its surroundings. Marvelyn and Digi ji had identified a nice spot, the previous evening to photography the skulker - Chin Hill Wren-babbler. We came here in the morning and could see three different individuals. After making a couple of image, I decided to leave them and walk back towards the tabletop again.

Chin Hill Wren-babbler - Image by Aseem Kothiala

The day was even more special as we sighted three individuals of the Mount Victoria Babax, that gave us a nice sighting. We spent a lot of time watching them, as they moved from one tree to another. later like every other evening we returned to the cliff to watch the sun set.

Mount Victoria Babax - Image by Aseem Kothiala

The last Sunset - Phawngpui Blue Mountain National Park (Mizoram)

Being our last morning here at the camp here, we spent some time around the Forest Rest House and saw a lot of commoners which included the Whiskered Yuhia, Rufous-backed Sibia, Streak-breasted Scimitar-Babbler to name a few (Refer to our eBird Checklist). We then trekked back to the camp in Sangau to retire for the night, that took us around three to four hours. 

Finally, the next day morning, we headed back towards Aizwal, this time it took us almost twelve hours to reach Lengpui, a town near the airport. This time we came across many road side shops, the price tag was mentioned on the packet, it was unmanned, on can simply pick the items and leave the cash in money boxes, that were not even locked. An exemplary way to exhibit honesty and culture. 

It would be unfair not to mention Cabin Hotel in Hnahthial, where we had our meals onward and on the way back to Aizwal. The next morning we squeezed in a couple of hours for birding, prior to boarding the flight to Mumbai, India.

Bird watching in the Blue Mountains of Mizoram was truly an enchanting experience for us. The lush greenery and diverse ecosystem of the region provided a perfect habitat for a wide variety of bird species. From colorful songbirds to majestic raptors, the Blue Mountains did offer a rich tapestry of avian life waiting to be discovered. 

By the end of this trip, we had bagged 15 more lifers, taking the bird count in India above the 1000 mark!

Thanking my birding pals Seema Kothiala, Marveyln Diaz, Satish Thayapurath and Digvijay Singh Rathore. We missed our good friends Peter Lobo and Dr Ian D’souza, who were to be a part of this trip as well, but could not make it. Last but not the least we thank Mr. Joe Thanga, whose hospitality was top notch. Even in a place this far and remote, provided us with excellent facilities, clean rooms and good food. His team mates, Isak, Kiddy, Chhanuka were outstanding in their own very way.

Joe Thanga, Kiddy, Satish T, Isak, Marvelyn D, Digvijay R, Seema K, Chhanuka & Myself

 A short video on the habitat and birds, Thank you in advance for your time and comments.

 

Happy Birding!

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    CAPRIMULGIFORMES: Apodidae   
1    Asian Palm Swift    Cypsiurus balasiensis
2    House Swift    Apus nipalensis
       
    CUCULIFORMES: Cuculidae   
3    Green-billed Malkoha    Phaenicophaeus tristis
       
    ACCIPITRIFORMES: Accipitridae   
4    Himalayan Griffon    Gyps himalayensis
5    Black Eagle    Ictinaetus malaiensis
       
    PICIFORMES: Picidae   
6    Stripe-breasted Woodpecker    Dendrocopos atratus
7    Crimson-naped Woodpecker    Dryobates cathpharius
       
    PICIFORMES: Ramphastidae   
8    Great Barbet    Psilopogon virens
9    Blue-throated Barbet    Psilopogon asiaticus
       
    PSITTACIFORMES: Psittaculidae   
10    Vernal Hanging Parrot    Loriculus vernalis
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Campephagidae   
11    Scarlet Minivet    Pericrocotus flammeus
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Vireonidae   
12    Himalayan Shrike-babbler    Pteruthius ripleyi
13    White-browed Shrike-Babbler    Pteruthius aeralatus
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Dicruridae   
14    Ashy Drongo    Dicrurus leucophaeus
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Monarchidae   
15    Black-naped Monarch    Hypothymis azurea
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Dicaeidae   
16    Plain Flowerpecker    Dicaeum concolor
17    Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker    Dicaeum cruentatum
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Nectariniidae   
18    Little Spiderhunter    Arachnothera longirostra
19    Fire-tailed Sunbird    Aethopyga ignicauda
20    Green-tailed Sunbird    Aethopyga nipalensis
21    Mrs. Gould's Sunbird    Aethopyga gouldiae
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Irenidae   
22    Orange-bellied Leafbird    Chloropsis hardwickii
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Motacillidae   
23    Olive-backed Pipit    Anthus hodgsoni
24    White Wagtail    Motacilla alba
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Emberizidae   
25    Little Bunting    Schoeniclus pusillus
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Stenostiridae   
26    Yellow-bellied Fairy-fantail    Chelidorhynx hypoxanthus
27    Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher    Culicicapa ceylonensis
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Paridae   
28    Green-backed Tit    Parus monticolus
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Cisticolidae   
29    Rufous-crowned Prinia    Prinia khasiana
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Locustellidae   
30    Brown Bush Warbler    Locustella luteoventris
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Hirundinidae   
30    Asian House Martin    Delichon dasypus
31    Striated Swallow    Cecropis striolata
32    Wire-tailed Swallow    Hirundo smithii
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Pycnonotidae   
33    White-throated Bulbul    Alophoixus flaveolus
34    Ashy Bulbul    Hemixos flavala
35    Mountain Bulbul    Ixos mcclellandii
36    Black Bulbul    Hypsipetes leucocephalus
37    Crested Finchbill    Spizixos canifrons
38    Striated Bulbul    Pycnonotus striatus
39    Black-crested Bulbul    Pycnonotus melanicterus
40    Red-whiskered Bulbul    Pycnonotus jocosus
41    Red-vented Bulbul    Pycnonotus cafer
42    Flavescent Bulbul    Pycnonotus flavescens
43    Large Niltava    Niltava grandis
44    Small Niltava    Niltava macgrigoriae
45    Oriental Magpie Robin    Copsychus saularis
46    Rufous-bellied Niltava    Niltava sundara
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Phylloscopidae   
47    Buff-barred Warbler    Abrornis pulcher
48    Buff-throated Warbler    Phylloscopus subaffinis
49    Grey-hooded Warbler    Seicercus xanthoschistos
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Aegithalidae   
50    Black-throated Tit    Aegithalos concinnus
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Zosteropidae   
51    Stripe-throated Yuhina    Yuhina gularis
52    Whiskered Yuhina    Yuhina flavicollis
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Timaliidae   
53    Chin Hills Wren Babbler    Spelaeornis oatesi
54    Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler    Pomatorhinus ruficollis
       
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Leiothrichidae   
55    Spot-breasted Laughing-thrush    Garrulax merulinus
56    Assam Laughingthrush    Trochalopteron chrysopterum
57    Lesser Necklaced Laughing-thrush    Garrulax monileger
58    Greater Necklaced Laughing-thrush    Garrulax pectoralis
59    Mount Victoria Babax    Pterorhinus woodi
60    Striped Laughing-thrush    Trochalopteron virgatum
61    Grey Sibia    Heterophasia gracilis
62    Rufous-backed Sibia    Leioptila annectens
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Certhiidae   
63    Hume's Treecreeper    Certhia manipurensis
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Sittidae   
64    White-tailed Nuthatch    Sitta himalayensis
65    Velvet-fronted Nuthatch    Sitta frontalis
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Muscicapidae   
66    Hill Blue Flycatcher    Cyornis banyumas
67    Rufous-bellied Niltava    Niltava sundara
68    Verditer Flycatcher    Eumyias thalassinus
69    Slaty-backed Flycatcher    Ficedula sordida
70    Blue Rock Thrush    Monticola solitarius
71    Grey Bushchat    Saxicola ferreus
72    Little Pied Flycatcher    Ficedula westermanni
73    Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush    Monticola rufiventris
       
    PASSERIFORMES: Turdidae   
74    Scaly Thrush    Zoothera dauma
75    Eyebrowed Thrush    Turdus obscurus